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Thread: Learn from my mistake: clunking diagnosis

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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    I'm having this same issue...I'll get back to you after this weekend with the diameter & pitch of the bolts in question. My bolts are still there, it's the mount that's toast...
    Gonna try to "fix" the old mount, possibly by through bolting it, as I don't have the $80+ to buy a new one right now.
    Man, I dropped the ball on that one...
    I will say, that through bolting the mount didn't work well at all. The torque laod from the massive Isuzu 3.5L was more than 1/4" grade 8's could handle...both sheared off...

    Gonna upgrade to 3/8 or 1/2" & give it another try, but suspect that there is a new tranny mount in my future.

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe_Black View Post
    Just discovered this on another VX and remembered to post the bolt size: 10x1.25mm, length not less than 35mm or more than 40mm. Preferably a shoulder bolt with lock washer. If you've lost your heat shield (left side) do replace as it protects the rubber in the tranny mount from heat degradation due to proximity of left catalytic converter.
    Thanks for remembering Joe, I didn't put my heat shield back on, but will, since I still have it.

  2. #2
    Member Since
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    Wrench

    Since the mounting boss on the tranny is aluminum you could re-tap, say 12x1.25mm, without having to hog out much material. Just take it slow and use cutting oil, then you'd have a solid OEM-look repair. Otherwise go with 10mm grade-8 or grade-10 hardware from your local fastener supply to properly through-bolt. Then you should be covered for shear.
    Over 20 years of Isuzu enjoyment...

  3. #3
    Member Since
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe_Black View Post
    Since the mounting boss on the tranny is aluminum you could re-tap, say 12x1.25mm, without having to hog out much material. Just take it slow and use cutting oil, then you'd have a solid OEM-look repair. Otherwise go with 10mm grade-8 or grade-10 hardware from your local fastener supply to properly through-bolt. Then you should be covered for shear.
    I think we're on different pages of the same book Joe, I was talking about through bolting the mount itself, to make it solid (and to keep from $pending money on a new one)...
    Here is what I meant...






  4. #4
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    Oh, gotcha. Roger roger!

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