its a 2000 with 40,000 miles so 10/30 mobil 1?
jharris,
i would tell you to do as joe mentioned, in your situation. after changing to full syn. change oiil, and filter again in 1000 to 1500 miles. this should "clean" the old oil outta there. im a hoosier also. started with the 10-30, but im running 5/30 now.
take it easy
david
jharris,
one more thing, i replace one quart of oil with a quart of lucas synthetic oil stabizer. so, 4 qts of oil, and 1qt of stabilizer. some people poo poo this product, but im a beliver in it.
Use a quart of engine oil flush avail at any autoparts store before you drain the oil - follow directions, do not drive with this in. I run a qt of diesel through before every other oil change as it is cheaper and accomplishes the same thing. You might want to do it every time you change your oil to clean away the excess. sludge.
When you put 1qt of diesel in.Do you drain a qt of oil out before you add it?
Do not do this without removing your coilpacks and plugs completely as you could seriously damage your engine, but better yet don't do this at all. This is an "old school" technique and is correctly done using kerosene which is an "engine wash". Believe it or not, it's actually detailed in my Caterpillar manuals from the 30's and 40's and is how I clean the transmission and clutches on my crawlers. However, diesel and kerosene can do some very nasty things to the inside of a modern engine, so if you want to go to the extreme of an engine flush then use modern off-the-shelf products.Originally Posted by Tone
Over 20 years of Isuzu enjoyment...
I want to use the engine flush you can buy at the auto parts store, but I hear you have to be carefull not to clog the oil pump screen which could cause major damage to the engine. I hear it's recommended with heavy sludge to drop the oil pan & clean the pan & pump screen with a major flush, is this true?
OttoVx
Use of a good quality synthetic like Mobil-1 or AMSOIL will remove most build-up over time with regular oil & filter changes thanks to their excellent detergent qualities. The amount of "sludge" starting this thread is relatively insignificant compared to that encountered in extreme service environment engines with high mileage and exclusive petroleum lubrication. In that instance a more thorough cleaning of the block and oil galleries can produce enough material to pose a problem to circulation or even blockage.
The area underneath the valve covers is a unique "in engine environment" as the build-up there comes from a combination of oil vapor, oil splash (from valve train) and water vapor produced by normal engine condensation. So what you see there isn't necessarily indicative of what the rest of the engine is like, and being valve covers you can just scrub with a stiff brush and degreaser followed by a good hosing off.
This will be a much more relevant topic for those VX owners not using synthetics as we start getting more machines with 200K miles and higher.![]()
Originally Posted by Tone
I would not add diesel to your oil PERIOD. Anything that will thin out the oil is bad. Even at an idle.There are plenty of detergents in the oil already.With regular oil changes there should be no need for this.The only way you would know for sure if you are doing any damage to your engine would be to have x-ray vision.Unless you look at the bearings and seals, before and after you do this.As far as it not being rocket science, if you think about it ,when that qt of diesel fuel goes through the bearings before it mixes completely with the oil I would think this to be a BAD thing. And just because you do it in your $65,000 MB does not mean squat.It does not prove that it does not do any damage.And by saying what you said above " I run a qt of diesel through before every other oil change as it is cheaper and accomplishes the same thing." is saying use diesel fuel. shawn
1COOLVX
See the Engine Flush in the parts store. I say I do it in the MB to backup what I do instead of what you've heard....