DIY Oil Change process

[Joe_Black]

What does the Lucas Synthetic Oil Stablizer do for me?

It doesn't do squat for you, but it sure does fatten Lucas' coffers. It's made from 100% pure snake oil.

[kpaske]

I've been using Mobil-1 synth oil and filters for a while now and they seem to work really well, so Joe's not the only major nut around here . My oil consumption is actually a lot lower now than when I was running AMSOil Series 2000, which is supposedly a better product, but for the VX I think it was too thin.

I believe the most critical factors in maintaining your vehicle are choosing the right oil, changing it regularly at appropriate intervals, and most importantly with the VX, keeping it topped off between changes which means checking your oil level every time you fuel up (or every two hours, whichever comes first jk).

When prepping your oil filter, all you really need to do is take a fingertip full of fresh oil and run it around the rubber ring on the filter, and maybe a little in the threads. Pouring oil into the filter before you install it will do nothing for you but make a mess.

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, thanks for the tips. I have been checking my oil very regularly. My VX does burn oil, and I have had to top off once or twice.

When prepping your oil filter, all you really need to do is take a fingertip full of fresh oil and run it around the rubber ring on the filter, and maybe a little in the threads. Pouring oil into the filter before you install it will do nothing for you but make a mess.

OK, I mean, once the oil filter is on, and you fill your engine up, oil will fill the filter at that point, right?

Bart

[Joe_Black]

Pouring oil in the filter prior to installation is unnecessary and messy, especially for side-mount filters like ours. Modern vehicles have the ability to pressurize the oil circuit quickly and with a good deal of volume, so your new filter will be flowing quick. Plus a fair amount of oil will flow into the filter from gravity alone once you refill the engine.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

Pouring oil in the filter prior to installation is unnecessary and messy, especially for side-mount filters like ours. Modern vehicles have the ability to pressurize the oil circuit quickly and with a good deal of volume, so your new filter will be flowing quick. Plus a fair amount of oil will flow into the filter from gravity alone once you refill the engine.

I'm glad this subject came up; because, just last week I had my local mechanic fix an oil leak on my Monte Carlo Z-34 (3.4L is a royal PITA to work on!). Since it also needed an oil/filter change, I watched him do the above mentioned ritual and wondered to myself about how worthwhile it would be to start doing this when servicing the VX myself?

As for changing oil myself...I've always thought it was important to wipe-off the dirty, old oil with a clean shop towel BEFORE screwing on the "new" filter which has "new" oil spread over the O-ring (seal) on the filter.


****Also, personally I've had good luck with both Mobil 1 oil filters from Autozone and Purolator PureOne oil Filters from Advance Auto. Since neither store carriers both brands, I just get whichever is convienent.

Some interesting reading below:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Fil...tml#OilFilters

[Tobert]

Another useful tip I learned growing up:

When you encounter a filter that's on too tight, rather than going immediately for the wrench, do this:

- wrap it with a shop towel to help you grip
- put slow, steady pressure on it - it'll move very slowly

What's happening when you over-crank it on removal is you cause the rubber seal to bunch up and just make it harder. Slow, steady pressure gives the rubber time to reacclimate and slip around. I've had to hold on for minutes before, but have gotten filters off that the 'ole screwdriver trick wouldn't touch.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks Tob, and what about putting the new filter back on? Just hand tight, right? No Superman tightness needed?

Bart

Another useful tip I learned growing up:

When you encounter a filter that's on too tight, rather than going immediately for the wrench, do this:

- wrap it with a shop towel to help you grip
- put slow, steady pressure on it - it'll move very slowly

What's happening when you over-crank it on removal is you cause the rubber seal to bunch up and just make it harder. Slow, steady pressure gives the rubber time to reacclimate and slip around. I've had to hold on for minutes before, but have gotten filters off that the 'ole screwdriver trick wouldn't touch.