Window woes...

[Tobert]

For safetys sake, one of those thick (approx 1/2") white plastic kitchen cutting boards might be the ticket.

Definitely a good idea. I looked at those and it turns out most of them (on ebay) are actually made out of the same stuff I was looking at. You're absolutely right about the safety precautions. Table saws are one of the most unforgiving tools you can own when it comes to tearing off fingers. I'm scared to death of mine and that's why I can still count to ten.

I just ordered some of that plastic. I'll report back here after application and will sell a couple sets cheaply if it works.

[creeg]

So the tabs for my passenger window broke off, and instead of throwing out a perfectly good piece of glass, I read the threads and I tried the quick-and-dirty fix, using JB Weld to fix my windows.



That didnt work that well. NOT recommended, dont waste your time.

Then, I read in this forum about the fact that 3M has the right kind of glue available, but Isuzu doesnt sell replacement tabs: they only sell new pieces of glass with the tabs pre-glued on. The cheapest I could find new glass is from Merlin: he quoted me $170 (which includes shipping to California). The local dealership wanted about $250. Not bad, but Im cheap. Then, Merlin suggested that I go to the General Motors parts department and see if they have a similar tab.

After some talking and research with the GM Parts guys, they found a part that looked right: GM Part number 22689012





These cost $9.64 each, I bought 2. Total cost of tabs: $20.88 (make sure you call ahead to see if they have them, I bought the last 2 that they had at my supplier). The screws that held the old tabs also fit this piece, so it seemed promising.

Then, I went on the 3m site and found a local supplier to get the 3M parts.
3M Automix, Channel Bonding & Sidelite Adhesive. Part# 08641: $13.75
3M Automix Applicator Gun. Part# 08191: $63.21
3M Mixing Nozzles Clear. Part# 08197: $18.54







They misquoted me when I called, so I got the gun for $40 instead of $60, so my total cost of 3M parts was $87.36

On to installation.

-I removed the old tab
-Scraped off all the old glue/JB Weld
-Put the glass back in the door and marked the location of the tabs with a pen on the glass
-Loaded the gun
-filled the tab with glue, and stuck it on the glass.
-waited about 4 minutes, and it was dry (fast curing time)
-put the glass back in, and bolted it in place.





It works fine now, and has been for the past 2 days. We'll see how long it lasts, Ill post here if it breaks off again.

Total cost for repair: $108.24

some things I noticed:

-The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window.
About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

-The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Reflections:

I would buy the tabs, take them to your local glass shop, see if they can just glue them on for me, and re-install it myself. $60 for the mixing gun and $18 for the nozzles is pretty steep if you ask me.

Well, there it is. hope that helps. Good luck!

[Kenny]

Just a thought...

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

I have not yet had to resort to the actual "window-fix" yet, I do have to keep the front rubber slide lubed with some silicone spray every now and then - otherwise I would have to pull the window back by hand as it goes up.

[Bulldoggie]

Great find. I find it hard to buy a new window just to get a plastic tab.

My tab was broken and I glued it back together with an epoxy that works with urethane. it is still holding after 100's of window openings.
If I had known about these GM tabs, I would have replaced both and repositioned them to line up with the lift arm holes

[kpaske]

The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window. About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

Huh? Can you take a picture or explain what you mean a little better?

Edit: I think what you mean is that when the window is rolled down completely, it still sticks up about 1/4" out of the door. Right?

The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Surely there has to be another suitable adhesive or method of application. $78 is a bit stiff for glue!

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

[creeg]

Huh? Can you take a picture or explain what you mean a little better?

Edit: I think what you mean is that when the window is rolled down completely, it still sticks up about 1/4" out of the door. Right?

---Correct

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

Yes, this GM clip is much more sturdy than the Isuzu tabs, and larger- but you cant really tell from the photo as I completely covered the original tab with JB Weld for my first attempt at a fix. Even so, I think the GM Clip will allow for some movement down during gluing- the only question then is whether that will jeopardize the strength of the tab, as the glass wouldnt be full seated in the tab. I dont know the answer to that one.

[kpaske]

Yes, this GM clip is much more sturdy than the Isuzu tabs, and larger- but you cant really tell from the photo as I completely covered the original tab with JB Weld for my first attempt at a fix. Even so, I think the GM Clip will allow for some movement down during gluing- the only question then is whether that will jeopardize the strength of the tab, as the glass wouldnt be full seated in the tab. I dont know the answer to that one.

From the picture it appears to me that the window should sit at almost exactly the same height using either tab. Is it possible that there is some play somewhere else, perhaps where the tabs attach to the rails?

[creeg]

From the picture it appears to me that the window should sit at almost exactly the same height using either tab. Is it possible that there is some play somewhere else, perhaps where the tabs attach to the rails?

That could very well be the case. They should sit at the same height.

I could also have neglected to push the tab on all the way when gluing the new one, and there could be a bit of glue on the bottom side of the glass that is casuing a spacing issue.

One thing is that if you look at the side-by-side comparison, the holes line up: but the bottom of the "seat" for the glass (ie, the plastic "U" shape that holds the glass, not the part that screws into the control arm) seems to be at a different height. But a) I dont know if that matters and b) I would think it would cause the window to sit a little lower, not higher, with the new tab.



Not really sure...

[etlsport]

neither one of my windows goes all the way down.. they both stop with about 1/8-1/4 inch sticking out of the door?? i figured it was normal

[Joe_Black]

From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

Unfortunately the cause of the window problem is the interface of the glass carrier with the guide rail. Loose or broken carrier clips just make it worse.

[Bulldoggie]

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

The tabs are too far forward on the glass IF it TILTS down in front when going up.
This picture is the window unbolted from the arm, but pushed back into the rear guide where it belongs.
repositioning the tabs will fix the window tilt ONLY.
If your window tabs were broken or your window wants to "pinch" or push itself out of the rubber, you will still need to shim the arm assembly to be UNDER the glass.

[kpaske]

The tabs are too far forward on the glass IF it TILTS down in front when going up.
This picture is the window unbolted from the arm, but pushed back into the rear guide where it belongs.
repositioning the tabs will fix the window tilt ONLY.
If your window tabs were broken or your window wants to "pinch" or push itself out of the rubber, you will still need to shim the arm assembly to be UNDER the glass.

I believe this is the problem that most are having with their windows, right? The front edge drops or hangs, causing the glass to rotate slightly counterclockwise as it's going up?

Do you think it would it be easier to grind out the hole on the rail, as you have, or pull the whole window and replace the tabs? Have you had any problems since you made the modification or do your windows work perfectly now?

Is there any play in how the rail itself mounts? Could the entire rail be slid forward rather than pulling the window back?

[Joe_Black]

The problem is that when the window tilts forward upon raising, whether from drag on the rubber guide or tab alignement, it causes the carrier guide to pop off the rail which allows it to tilt even further. The window fix using the washers to space the rail off the inner door works because it forces the rail to stay in contact with the carrier guide.

The root of the problem is the poor design of the carrier guide and rail, which has less contact area than is typical of similar power window systems. If the VX had been a normal production vehicle it would've been addressed and a retrofit made available, but that's the price we pay for uniqueness.

[Bulldoggie]

YES, My window operates several times a day, very smooth and evenly.
Just like they should.
Less than $15.00 and about 1 hour to make all the adjustments.
I would have used a new window tab, if I could.
I showed JAFO's dad, when I saw him. Anyone who would like to see for themselfs, just drop by.

[JAFO]

YES, My window operates several times a day, very smooth and evenly.
Just like they should.
Less than $15.00 and about 1 hour to make all the adjustments.
I would have used a new window tab, if I could.
I showed JAFO's dad, when I saw him. Anyone who would like to see for themselfs, just drop by.

Yah, he mentioned that he ran into you. I'll have to take a better look at mine when I get some time. I think the passenger side may be hanging a little.