Window woes...

[Tobert]

I was planning on just making some out of metal, but my primary problem is that the window channel has been ripped or cut off, so there's nothing to guide the window. Putting metal tabs on would just make the window shatter.

There isn't really much to those plastic pieces ... they could probably be made out of a good piece 1/2" PVC stock with a dremel if you take your time. I was thinking of trying that, too. They don't need to be exact - just close enough to fill in the rest with adhesive. Really they don't need to be as fancy as they are. You really just need a slot in a piece of 1/2" plastic with a hole drilled for the bolt. In fact, now that I think about it, the replacements could be much bigger so they can handle more stress ... hmm.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7539628733

I might give that a try. Heck, I could probably cut the slot nicely with the tablesaw (very carefully, of course).

[Ldub]

Tobert,

Just had an idea while reading your post.
For safetys sake, one of those thick (approx 1/2") white plastic kitchen cutting boards might be the ticket.
That way you can rip your groove in the edge with precious pinkies well away from the blade, then cut to desired width (height?)
I'm not sure about how well epoxy or other adhesives will stick to that stuff though.
I dunno, just thinkin' out loud.

[Tobert]

For safetys sake, one of those thick (approx 1/2") white plastic kitchen cutting boards might be the ticket.

Definitely a good idea. I looked at those and it turns out most of them (on ebay) are actually made out of the same stuff I was looking at. You're absolutely right about the safety precautions. Table saws are one of the most unforgiving tools you can own when it comes to tearing off fingers. I'm scared to death of mine and that's why I can still count to ten.

I just ordered some of that plastic. I'll report back here after application and will sell a couple sets cheaply if it works.

[creeg]

So the tabs for my passenger window broke off, and instead of throwing out a perfectly good piece of glass, I read the threads and I tried the quick-and-dirty fix, using JB Weld to fix my windows.



That didnt work that well. NOT recommended, dont waste your time.

Then, I read in this forum about the fact that 3M has the right kind of glue available, but Isuzu doesnt sell replacement tabs: they only sell new pieces of glass with the tabs pre-glued on. The cheapest I could find new glass is from Merlin: he quoted me $170 (which includes shipping to California). The local dealership wanted about $250. Not bad, but Im cheap. Then, Merlin suggested that I go to the General Motors parts department and see if they have a similar tab.

After some talking and research with the GM Parts guys, they found a part that looked right: GM Part number 22689012





These cost $9.64 each, I bought 2. Total cost of tabs: $20.88 (make sure you call ahead to see if they have them, I bought the last 2 that they had at my supplier). The screws that held the old tabs also fit this piece, so it seemed promising.

Then, I went on the 3m site and found a local supplier to get the 3M parts.
3M Automix, Channel Bonding & Sidelite Adhesive. Part# 08641: $13.75
3M Automix Applicator Gun. Part# 08191: $63.21
3M Mixing Nozzles Clear. Part# 08197: $18.54







They misquoted me when I called, so I got the gun for $40 instead of $60, so my total cost of 3M parts was $87.36

On to installation.

-I removed the old tab
-Scraped off all the old glue/JB Weld
-Put the glass back in the door and marked the location of the tabs with a pen on the glass
-Loaded the gun
-filled the tab with glue, and stuck it on the glass.
-waited about 4 minutes, and it was dry (fast curing time)
-put the glass back in, and bolted it in place.





It works fine now, and has been for the past 2 days. We'll see how long it lasts, Ill post here if it breaks off again.

Total cost for repair: $108.24

some things I noticed:

-The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window.
About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

-The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Reflections:

I would buy the tabs, take them to your local glass shop, see if they can just glue them on for me, and re-install it myself. $60 for the mixing gun and $18 for the nozzles is pretty steep if you ask me.

Well, there it is. hope that helps. Good luck!

[Kenny]

Just a thought...

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

I have not yet had to resort to the actual "window-fix" yet, I do have to keep the front rubber slide lubed with some silicone spray every now and then - otherwise I would have to pull the window back by hand as it goes up.

[Bulldoggie]

Great find. I find it hard to buy a new window just to get a plastic tab.

My tab was broken and I glued it back together with an epoxy that works with urethane. it is still holding after 100's of window openings.
If I had known about these GM tabs, I would have replaced both and repositioned them to line up with the lift arm holes

[kpaske]

The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window. About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

Huh? Can you take a picture or explain what you mean a little better?

Edit: I think what you mean is that when the window is rolled down completely, it still sticks up about 1/4" out of the door. Right?

The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Surely there has to be another suitable adhesive or method of application. $78 is a bit stiff for glue!

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

[creeg]

Huh? Can you take a picture or explain what you mean a little better?

Edit: I think what you mean is that when the window is rolled down completely, it still sticks up about 1/4" out of the door. Right?

---Correct

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

Yes, this GM clip is much more sturdy than the Isuzu tabs, and larger- but you cant really tell from the photo as I completely covered the original tab with JB Weld for my first attempt at a fix. Even so, I think the GM Clip will allow for some movement down during gluing- the only question then is whether that will jeopardize the strength of the tab, as the glass wouldnt be full seated in the tab. I dont know the answer to that one.

[kpaske]

Yes, this GM clip is much more sturdy than the Isuzu tabs, and larger- but you cant really tell from the photo as I completely covered the original tab with JB Weld for my first attempt at a fix. Even so, I think the GM Clip will allow for some movement down during gluing- the only question then is whether that will jeopardize the strength of the tab, as the glass wouldnt be full seated in the tab. I dont know the answer to that one.

From the picture it appears to me that the window should sit at almost exactly the same height using either tab. Is it possible that there is some play somewhere else, perhaps where the tabs attach to the rails?

[Joe_Black]

From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

Unfortunately the cause of the window problem is the interface of the glass carrier with the guide rail. Loose or broken carrier clips just make it worse.

[Bulldoggie]

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

The tabs are too far forward on the glass IF it TILTS down in front when going up.
This picture is the window unbolted from the arm, but pushed back into the rear guide where it belongs.
repositioning the tabs will fix the window tilt ONLY.
If your window tabs were broken or your window wants to "pinch" or push itself out of the rubber, you will still need to shim the arm assembly to be UNDER the glass.

[kpaske]

The tabs are too far forward on the glass IF it TILTS down in front when going up.
This picture is the window unbolted from the arm, but pushed back into the rear guide where it belongs.
repositioning the tabs will fix the window tilt ONLY.
If your window tabs were broken or your window wants to "pinch" or push itself out of the rubber, you will still need to shim the arm assembly to be UNDER the glass.

I believe this is the problem that most are having with their windows, right? The front edge drops or hangs, causing the glass to rotate slightly counterclockwise as it's going up?

Do you think it would it be easier to grind out the hole on the rail, as you have, or pull the whole window and replace the tabs? Have you had any problems since you made the modification or do your windows work perfectly now?

Is there any play in how the rail itself mounts? Could the entire rail be slid forward rather than pulling the window back?

[Tobert]

Well, it has been a HOT weekend here in Western Michigan. I was out running around in the VX yesterday and got too hot, so I chanced rolling down my driver's side window (my A/C is waiting on a backordered line from Merlin). Of course, it fell off of the broken brackets again.

I already had the plastic I mentioned earlier in this thread in my garage, so I broke down and decided to hack out some custom brackets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7539628733

I'm not terribly proud of these, but they work for now. If I make any more, I'll probably make a template so they're more consistent. The other thing I'd do is drill another groove down the long way in the bracket so there's a place for the adhesive to pool. I just used Automotive GOOP from Autozone. It turns out that it sticks to glass OK, but does not stick to the HD-HMW I bought. The drilled groove would provide a place for it to ppol up so it doesn't need to stick to the plastic.

Tools used to make them:
* standard table saw
* drill
* dremel w/ router plate
* sawzall

Installation:
* install brackets
* install window
* have somebody hold window up out of the way
* fill groove with GOOP
* insert window, fitted tightly into the rear channel
* roll it up a little at a time making sure it's all the way back
* wait 24hrs for glue to dry

While I was at it, I added the washers to the track others have mentioned.

If anybody wants me to give a more complete description of how I made them, just PM me and I'll write something up. It's fairly obvious how I did it though.

Pictures:

[vrsvx]

I bought some Sticky Putty off HSN.COM and it seems to bond to just about anything. It bonds to glass. brick, just about anything. I have the classic drivers door window hangups that most of us have. I will attempt to pull the door panel this weekend and try it. I will let the group know how successful or not this goes.

[Rednex]

So - my newly acquired '99 VX has 'widows woe'. I was told so by seller, so we just discounted some from his price tag, and I have not risked even opening neither of windows so far.

I carefully went through all the thread, yet I have couple of Qs unclear still:

1. where do you apply those washers in order to align the lifting mechanism right below the glass? Any explanatory pics anybody?

2. Have I understood correctly, that moving glass-holding tabs forward ~5mm (~0.2 inches) so that they push glass firmly in the back slider TOGETHER with applying washers mentioned in (1) SHOULD fix the problem once and for good?

Advance thanx on clarifications!

P.S.

Suggestion for tabs creation and fixing: may be one can use stiff rubber used usually in engine pillows or axle stoppers (don't know right eng term for them; I mean bumpers below car to stop shocks and springs being driven too deep into wheel arch. I have four of such on my Discovery and Defender, have not looked beneath VX yet... ), and for gluing use glass-fixing adhesive used by professional guys replacing windows on contemporary cars? Just thinking out loud...