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Thread: Do You Wax ? Or Do You ICE ?

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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    If a shop sands that silicone treated car before a good strong detergent wash followed by a solvent wipedown, they're only grinding the stuff in... not off. Even a fresh coat of armorall on interior will be vaporizing the whole time, contaminating the exterior. The problem isn't one of adhesion as much as the fisheyes it causes. Then again, people didn't really rub silicone all over the outside of their cars...till now. It is the nemisis of a good shoot-we hate it. Leah, only a layer of good wax (Meguires High Tech Yellow #10) and quick removal of the water will prevent it, and once burned in, only a buffer and compound will remove it. Not something you can do many times and not usually a do it yourself job.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chopper
    Leah, only a layer of good wax (Meguires High Tech Yellow #10) and quick removal of the water will prevent it,
    Chopper, I disagree. I do not use this wax and as long as I remove the water before it dries there are no spots. And before you ask, we do have hard water also. shawn
    1COOLVX

  3. #3
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    Leah, that Mr. Clean gadget worked so-so for me. Here I have hard water too and it used to leave a fine white powder on the VX when dry. Nothing a car duster and about 1 minute wouldn't fix though. I went back to drying with one of the synthetic absorber cloths though. Takes longer, but they really get you on those soap and cartridge refills.

  4. #4
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    I've used the Mr. Clean deal as well. It works but I would only recommend it for the "in between" washes. Nothing beats a good 'ol scrubbin of the little guys armpits and a old fashoned towel dry for the good cleanings..
    Scott / moncha.com

  5. #5
    Member Since
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    After a year of use, I've found that the Mr. Clean system is best used as a rinse only. The soap is too expen$ive & kind of a hassle to use.
    I'm thinking of getting an in-line filter to get out the minerals etc. & just going back to a good old sprayer type hose end. The Mr. C rinse works well, but is a little lacking in power imo.

  6. #6
    Member Since
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chopper
    If a shop sands that silicone treated car before a good strong detergent wash followed by a solvent wipedown, they're only grinding the stuff in... not off. Even a fresh coat of armorall on interior will be vaporizing the whole time, contaminating the exterior. The problem isn't one of adhesion as much as the fisheyes it causes. Then again, people didn't really rub silicone all over the outside of their cars...till now.
    This is what I was always told -I've seen the 'fisheye' effect before.
    I think that I'll stick with the good ol hard wax and elbow grease on the paint.
    I'll use it on the cladding for sure though, I've been rubbing silicone products on it since day 1.

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