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Thread: I've had it with this horrible Gas Mileage! Idea's?

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Jul 2008
    Location
    1999, Silver, Vehicross, 0555
    Posts
    7
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    MPG anyone

    First, Use the right plug: NGK laser platinum ONLY it runs like crap without them and eats too much fuel with any others ( Yes I know there $10 each, just buy them).

    Second, clean the mass air flow sensor, nobody ever thinks of it and it ALWAYS adds MPG. Just make sure you buy the right stuff its called um.. mass air flow sensor cleaner; while your at it put in a new filter.

    third, rid yourself of the factory fan and opt for an electric one.

    fourth, turn TOD off and install some manual hubs.
    I average 18-19 MPG with 20-21 (maybe 22 if theres a stiff wind to my back) MPG freeway, with these mods.

    Doc.
    Last edited by DOCSXV : 08/25/2008 at 11:45 PM

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jan 2005
    Location
    '99, White, Iron-Man (0109)
    Posts
    54
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    Ok - Since this thread is alive again, I'll add an update. Back when I originally posted in '06, I had just shy of 100K miles... Well it's more like 160k miles now. My mileage is up around 17.5 to just shy of 19 usually these days. (I'm not fanatical about my tire pressure and when I add air, I run them around 34-35psi. I think I may boot them to 39 & see what happens.)

    The valve cover fix I mentioned. It was covered by warrantybynet.com, but didn't solve my oil consumption problem. (It sometimes uses a lot... other times not so much. Still not solved.)

    The intake gasket. I fixed that myself last summer after I was fed up w/ getting 12-13mpg. READ: 250ish miles per tank w/ 20 gallon fill-ups. **Note: Mileage calc lessons were humorous. Thanks! (No offense) After I replaced the gasket, my milage went up to the 16-19mpg range.

    To check for an intake leak, just take a can of carb cleaner and spray it along the intake-to-cylinder head mating surfaces while at idle. If the idle goes up or changes, then you have found your leak.

    The brake drag... Yes, you will feel the heat and smell them if they are dragging very much.

    I would also suspect the fuel gauge is wrong, goalie. Mine is definitely messed up now. The needle is all over the place once the level drops from a totally full tank. Sort of like if the tank didn't have any baffles and the fuel could slosh all around, letting the float rise and fall too much.

    Ok - That's all! Best to everyone!

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Jan 2005
    Location
    '99, White, Iron-Man (0109)
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    Fogot to ask... Any additional info on the 3.0L diesel swap and the manual hubs??

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Aug 2008
    Location
    2001, PROTON YELLOW, VehiCROSS, 1451
    Posts
    1,955
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    Holy cow! Did you realize there is 2 years and 4 months between post #58 and #59 ??? Tall, narrow and lightweight tires can help in overall MPG. The most "economical" tire for the best MPG is the TOYO - Open Country A/T in 255/70R18 (only 10.3" wide, 32.1" O.D., weighs only 41 lbs, and set to max PSI of 35 per sidewall panel). Only drawback is the VX will look like it's on skinny wagon wheels.

  5. #5
    Member Since
    May 2008
    Location
    1999 Astral Silver Metallic, 1802
    Posts
    219
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    Gas Mileage tips that have served me well no matter which car I drive

    General Maintenance:
    1. Tires at maximum suggested pressure
    2. replace (or recharge) your filter ever other oil change... a clean filter is better than anything else.
    3. and clean your MAF with maf cleaner whenever you change your filter
    4. make sure your bearings are in good shape, and properly tightened, also make sure your vehicle is properly aligned... these should be checked annually.
    5. run higher octane gas, it might be more expensive but moving from regular to premium can add 3-4mpg and only cost 30cents more per gallon and in general that works out in your favor in the end. play with different grades and pay attention
    6. Run full synthetic oil at the weight specified by the manufacturer, pick a name brand filter over a cheapie and use a magnetic oil plug (collects metalic debris in your system)... if you're switching from conventional to synthetic make your first synthetic change for about 200-400 miles and then change the oil and filter again, this will help clean out the sludge that the synthetic clean out that the conventional does not.
    7. have the driveshaft/axle shafts lubed (should be done every other oil change)
    8. replace your transmission fluid (don't forget the diffs)
    9. get your coolant flushed
    10. have your water pump and timing belts checked (if your over 80k miles you should consider getting them replaced)
    11. Replace your O2 Sensors
    12. Replace your sparkplugs
    13. replace your EGR valve


    Modifications
    1. narrow tires, slightly taller than stock (make sure you calibrate your speedo so youre mileage is tracked properly!!!) Also a tread pattern for good on-road characteristics is good for mileage, big knobby mud tires are horrid.
    2. smallest wheels possible, wheels weight more than tires, smaller wheels = less weight, pay attention to the wheel weight too, it can vary greatly depending on how it was made and of what material... chrome = the worst
    3. a conical, in-bay intake ("shorty" or "ram" style) will be the best for mileage, cold air intakes are the worst, paper filters are generally better for mileage than something like a K&N...
    4. an OEM exhaust will likely work much better for mileage than an aftermarket one, consider switching back to stock.
    5. REMOVE your PCV system. (note: illegal)
    6. Replace or remove your catalytic converters (note: illegal)
    7. remove any roof racks, rain guards, bash bars, or other objects that can cause drag (if you want to get serious swap out the mirrors for something smaller/more streamlined too)
    8. drop as much weight as possible: remove anything from that car that doesn't need to be there, remove the spare tire, back seat, go with carbon fiber hood or other parts, explore other options for weight reduction, go on a diet

    Driving characteristics
    1. drive at whatever speed gives you maximum MPH per RPM (typically 40-45MPH) maybe instead of the highway there is a smaller road with a 45MPH speed limit.
    2. keep the windows up and the AC off, if you NEED to be cool use the AC with the windows up over 40MPH, and below 40MPH drive with the windows down and the AC off.
    3. avoid stopping, if you see a red light up ahead, start slowing down early in hopes that it will turn green before you get there so you don't have to stop. (consider this: everytime you use your brakes you're throwing away energy, the harder you use them the faster you're wasting energy)
    4. accelerate slowly, the key is keeping the RPMs low


    I'm sure I could think of more if I tried... there's a lot of stuff you can do and a lot of things that people never really consider.

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Jul 2007
    Location
    1999,Astral Silver,VX,1349
    Posts
    1,656
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    I met a guy along time ago ..in the late 70s ..he said he could save 30% in fuel cost in any car..for less then $10 worth of part ..
    he told me to go get a tennis ball and some duct tape ..put the ball under the gas pedal and tape it to it....i never tried it ..but ???
    and then he said "you have to giveup some thing to get some thing else"
    you want a hotrod ...give up mileage...you want mileage... give up the hotrod..
    i like my:bwgr: 4x4 hotrod..
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]...

  7. #7
    Member Since
    May 2008
    Location
    1999 Astral Silver Metallic, 1802
    Posts
    219
    Thanked: 0
    Quote Originally Posted by don moore View Post
    he told me to go get a tennis ball and some duct tape ..put the ball under the gas pedal and tape it to it....
    cute...

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