K&N = Engine Check Light?

[JAFO]

Last night I installed a K&N stock replacement air filter and PIAA Xtreme White Plus headlights.

This morning the engine check light was on during my drive to work. My VX has just rolled over the 70K mile mark.

Could the K&N filter trip the check engine light or could this be a "Time for Servicing" alert based upon mileage?

[JAFO]

I talked with the dealership and they said that there is no mileage check that would trip the engine check light.

They said that either it is a emission check problem. Which they said to check the gas cap.

Or they said that they have had problems with the oil from the K&N air filter messing up the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.

Has any body else had this problem with the K&N filters?

[JULIAN911]

I had the drop-in K&N filter and now a huge cone filter after the SC installed - no check engine light. You may want to disconnect the battery and let the ECM reset to adjust to higher airflow.

[mbeach]

I've been running K&Ns for awhile now -no CELs.

Can you take take it to an AutoZone/Shucks/Kragen/Advance and get it scanned?

[Numba1goalie]

I just put a K&N and I have 62k on mine. It works fine. I also took off the little elbow that goes with it.

Still get bad gas milage though.

[JAFO]

I had the drop-in K&N filter and now a huge cone filter after the SC installed - no check engine light. You may want to disconnect the battery and let the ECM reset to adjust to higher airflow.

Just tried that. When I restarted the VX it surges continuosly now. Until I press the accelerator to even it out. When I let off it continues to surge the throttle and then the engine check light comes on and then it levels out the RPMs.

I took out the K&N filter, put the stock one back in, and disconnected the battery again. When I started it back up it repeated the same thing.

Can you take take it to an AutoZone/Shucks/Kragen/Advance and get it scanned?

I'm going to take it there right now.

[VehiX]

Did you damage the MAF screen or the thin wire behind it or loosen a connection on the MAF when switching out the filter? Sounds like a possible cause. Getting the filter around the intake tube can be tricky because it's a tight fit some times and the screen and harness are right there when you're working on it. Any performace changes now that the light's on? If so I would check these two possiblities.

[JAFO]

Did you damage the MAF screen or the thin wire behind it or loosen a connection on the MAF when switching out the filter? Sounds like a possible cause. Getting the filter around the intake tube can be tricky because it's a tight fit some times and the screen and harness are right there when you're working on it. Any performace changes now that the light's on? If so I would check these two possiblities.

I took off the top of the air cleaner housing last night when I was changing the light bulbs. I disconnected it on the first clamp on the air box side. I did not disconnect the MAF sensor. I could have dumped something out of place. It is on snug but is possible that it is not on perfectly.

Yes it doesn't seam to be running the same and it actually stalled at a stop light. Not a big deal but it did take me 10 seconds to realize that I couldn't restart it because it was still in drive. Damn automatics.

AutoZone checked the code. It is reading low input from the MAF sensor. They said it happens a lot. He sold me some electronics cleaner and said to remove the MAFS and clean it out really good. He then suggested that I take an air compressor and blow out the K&N to remove excess oil from the filter. Although I didn't oil it, it came preoiled.

I'm going to try this after work.

[mbeach]

Be careful using compressed air on the K&N -the high pressure will tear the cotton gauze and you'll end up with a hole.

Your symptoms sound a lot like those experienced with torn intake manifold gaskets -after you've run through the standard MAF sensor cleaning, give those a look.

[alleycat]

Where is this MAF sensor. Out of the clear blue my check engine lite has come on also. Code is reading lean 1st bank [171]. Checked gas cap, cleared code 3 times and lite still coming on. It is running pretty good and a little rough idle now and them. Could there be a blown fuse somewhere that would make this engine lite come on?

[JAFO]

Be careful using compressed air on the K&N -the high pressure will tear the cotton gauze and you'll end up with a hole.

Your symptoms sound a lot like those experienced with torn intake manifold gaskets -after you've run through the standard MAF sensor cleaning, give those a look.

mbeach, Where is the intake manifold gaskets?

I have completely removed the intake tube, with the MAF. I couldnt figure out how to get the MAF out of the tube though. It was still stuck even after removing the clamp. I didn't pry the tube because I didn't want to damage it.

I heavily sprayed the inside of the mesh screen with electronics cleaner that they sold me at AutoZone. I have the original air filter back in and I disconnected the battery twice. But it is still surging on startup then the engine check light comes on and the RPMs level out.

Also when I drove the truck home, approximately 3 miles, it died twice.

I looked and as best I can tell the little wires on the MAF behind the mesh look ok.

Also what is the little sensor on the oposite side end of the tube next to the intake? O2 sensor?

[mbeach]

I'm not going outside to check right now (it's about -40), but there's no O2 sensor on the intake, I can't picture what you're talking about. I'll look it up later.

The intake manifold is under the plastic cover on the top of the engine. Where the manifold meets the heads (on both sides) there is a gasket that you may or may not see.
Start the truck and spray some carb cleaner along this area -just a dusting, not soaking it down. If the engine surges, then you have a leak -the engine's vacuum is drawing the carb cleaner into the cylinders through the torn gasket.

The purpose of the MAF is to determine how much air is entering the engine. If there is a leak post-MAF, then the air measured is not what is actually entering the cylinders. This will lean out your air/fuel ratio and throw off your O2 sensors. The only component that the OBD can reference is the MAF -so it throws a MAF code even though the problem might be elsewhere.

[Raque Thomas]

Are you certain that the MAF sensor wiring harness is hooked up? Mine did this same thing when I unplugged the connection to get more slack in the tube when installing a new filter. Could the plug be what you think is an O2 sensor?

I also ran an oiled K&N with no CEL, and now a Hot Shot tube with an oiled cone filter w/o a CEL. I'm betting your connection is the problem. If the harness is connected to the side of the MAF, disconnect it and check the condition of the connectors, then try plugging it back in.

[psychos2]

if it is gettting a code for the maf then that is the problem. not the intake gaskets.either a wire is pulled out or a bent prong or it is dirty or covered in oil.the other sensor is more than likely an air temp sensor. shawn

[mbeach]

if it is gettting a code for the maf then that is the problem. not the intake gaskets.

Not necessarily.
The engine only has one way of determining the correct a/f ratio before the burn -that's the MAF. After the burn you have 2/4 O2 sensors.

If there's a leak (air) between these sensors, the ECU can pick the most likely item. It finds the fault at the O2 sensorS (all of them). Since it is unlikely that both banks would simultaneously go lean, the ECU has the sense to choose the component which measures the incoming air to begin with.

Disconnect the intake tube from the throttle body and I'll bet that you throw a MAF code.