Rough Running after Timing Belt Install

[mbeach]

I gave advice based on this paragraph:

My cam shaft lined up after one rotation. The driver's side took about 3 or 4 full rotations, and the passenger side lined up after 1 or 2.

The point is, you turned various shafts independently of each other. It's too easy to miss the mark this way. If you want to spend days moving your cog(s) one tooth to the left/right than that's fine.

Here's another thought:
Where'd you get your replacement belt? If it's too long (would you know?) then it doesn't matter what you did right, your timing will wander from spec.

The RLTW was not a dig -I recall you mentioned that you were in 2d Batt before. I was being courteous.

[kpaske]

So if it is, in fact, 180 degrees off, it should be relatively easy to put it back in phase, right? I'm guessing that one cycle of the #2 cylinder is what it would take? In other words, rotate the drivers side cam until the piston moves from TDC, to the bottom, and back to TDC?

I don't think I'm one tooth off though - I took extra care to ensure that everything looked exact, and lined up the double line on the belt with the mark on the crank shaft pulley, leaving little doubt. I drew a little line on the belt tooth that corresponds to that mark so it would be easy to see when it lined up, and the lines on the cams line up fairly easily. Also, the cams sort of "pop" into place, so I think it's hard to screw those up.

The belt is a Gatorback, which is what several other members have used, so unless it is defective, there shouldn't be any issues with fitment.

If you guys are pretty sure it is 180 degrees off, if you could just confirm what the best way to make absolutely sure everything is lined up correctly, I've got no problem tearing it down and putting it back together. Third time's a charm, right?

P.S. Mbeach - I didn't think the "RLTW" was a dig, I just wasn't sure if there was some other meaning to the acronym, as I didn't think most people knew it to mean what I know it to mean. I'm surprised you remembered I'm with 2nd Bat.

[Joe_Black]

The belt is a Gatorback, which is what several other members have used, so unless it is defective, there shouldn't be any issues with fitment.

I know many have used the Gatorback for replacing the serpentine with great results, but for the timing belt I would personally not stray from the OEM. Plus, there's been a lot of negative reviews of the Gatorback timing belts among the import crowd due to stretching. After speaking with several folk about your issue I seriously doubt you're 180 degress off, but definitely a little. There's four cams there, and if just one is a tooth off you'd get what you've got now. The professional consensus is that it wouldn't even run at all at 180 degrees on even one set of cams.

I know you've probably checked this eleventy-billion times, but verify your belt is for the 6VE1 and not the 6VD1 or the 3.2L DOHC predecessor. I've seen 3.2L parts listed mistakenly for the 3.5L many times.

Wish we were closer by so we could gang-up on this problem with you!

[psychos2]

there is a tsb for replacing the timing belt.i do not remember what it said.does anyone know? when the marks are all lined up there is no way it could be out 180 degrees. my guess would be that it is off a tooth. shawn

[Raque Thomas]

Been watching this thread with great interest, as I'm seeing some small cracks in my belt - think I'll take it and have it done, though!! Hard to believe that something as precise as timing would be described in the manual as "line up the mark to the 2 o'clock position". Sounds like a 1950's era vehicle rather than a 1999-2001! Seems this would be further compunded by having to line up 4 marks to such subjective points in space - unless the computer compaensates and adjusts the timing??

[Joe_Black]

This just in from another race mechanic I had forwarded this thread to (unedited, so don't take the wording personal Kyle! ):

Hey Joe, just read the VX board thingie. Definitely the #1 and #3 bank is out of time on the intake cam, that is why the engine is running rich, the injector fires, the fuel pools up behind the valve because it isnt opening at the right time, and then it dumps a load of fuel into the chamber, rather than a fine mist. I don't know why the marks would line up, but he turned the cams around with the belt off--HUGE mistake, may not get it fixed on his own! All those things have to have the belt to keep time, that is why it's there. If everything lines up, it's a little confusing, cause it should work, but it definitely sounds like an intake cam is "bonked". Also, maybe he mixed up the plug wires or rather the coil plugs and is running the #1 with the # 3 connector, that would be easy! It's definitely not an ECU problem, that would never be that bad.

The coil comment is good 'cause it's one of those "simple" things that can slip under the radar while you're pulling your remaining hairs out.

[kpaske]

Raque - I think you are thinking about the Serpentine belt - the timing belt is not visible without some significant disassembly. That job actually isn't that hard; some have said it's a five minute job, no tools required. It took me about an hour, including replacement of the tensioner.

Joe - Thanks for getting your friend's advice. I'm not sure how turning the cams is such a huge mistake, when both of the manuals state that this is the correct procedure, and it is still my understanding that if everything lines up, they can't be rotated 180 degrees. His idea about the coils being switched is a good thought, but the only one I disconnected was the #2, so there is no possibility of a mix up there.

What about if I got a defective tensioner? That could cause these type of symptoms, couldn't it? Thinking back, when I did the job the second time after recompressing the tensioner, the belt didn't seem to be as tight as I expected. Maybe it's either too loose, or even skipping a tooth?