But of course...

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/88

This procedure basically just takes up the slack in the string of ball bearings in the recirculating-ball steering system.

I want to add a correction of sorts, though. In this article (with pictures!), it says:

"Making the adjustment needs to be done in very small increments. Tightening the adjustor too much will make driving the truck VERY difficult. It won't return to center, and it will behave like the camber is out. By small, I mean like the distance from the 5 to the 10 on your watch."

That was not the case on mine. I loosened the lock nut, and while holding it in place with a box wrench, I tightened the adjusting screw probably about 3/4 of a turn until it didn't want to turn easily anymore. Another poster somewhere said they tightened theirs 3 or 4 full turns. I think it's a case of the looser your steering is, the more slack there will be in the adjusting screw. My advice is to tighten the screw until you feel the resistance, tighten the lock nut, then give it a test drive.

A couple of tips:

- Take a quick drive before you do this to fell out the slop in the steering wheel as a point of reference (I hadn't driven my VX in two days when I did this, and it was hard to figure out how much it helped until I drove to work on Monday.

- Definitely remove the top of the fan shroud. If you can figure out how to get the bottom half off, do that too. It gives you a the room you need to work.

- My steering box is mounted at an angle that did not allow the use of a 2-foot rachet driver extension and a deep-well socket, because the extension was blocked by the radiator itself. I ended up putting the deep-well socket on a two-inch extension and used a breaker bar as a crow-bar to break the lock nut free. Whatever works, right?

Good luck!