Need Advise on Front Shocks Installation

[SPAZZ]

I can sell you a set if you want(I have 3 sets)...I am going SAS and have already removed my front axle. I do not believe I can use these for the SAS with SOA.

[Hotsauce]

You need a couple of wrenches, ansd some string.

The wrenches are obvious, the string is to loop around the new shock to hold it compressed till its installed. The pressure in a new shock is pretty strong.

John C.

[SPAZZ]

better be pretty darn strong string for a stock front shock...


but, it is better to just put some M A N into it and undo top nut and remove the spacers and bushing. Then, compress shock by applying steady pressure untill it does...when it moves far enough slip it out of the shock mount. Then undo bottom nut and remove bolt.
When you install replacement install bottom of shock by pushing shock into the lower mount and install bolt and tighten nut enough to where you still can move shock around. Then compress shock enough to slip it into the shock mount and put spacers, bushing, and nut back on...tighten. Bam...that easy!!!

[SwampBuggyMan]

Do I take the wheels off, and do I have to use a jack?

I'm mechanically inclined really I just havent ever done a shock before.

Thanks

[Hotsauce]

Take the wheel off. Support the truck by the frame and let the wheel go to full drop, this will minimise how much the shock needs compressing.

John C.

[VehiGAZ]

Swamp,

Spazz's advice will work, unless you get the Bilstein 1738/1739's, which do not ship pre-compressed. Those and the Ranchos 9000s are the most popular choices for replacement shocks.

If you go with the Bilsteins (my recommendation), I have posted a how-to procedure here:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...0&postcount=30

But yes, you need to take the wheel off and lift it to get at the shock mount.

Good luck!

[mbeach]

I agree with VehiGaz' statement on the Bilsteins -I have the Billis and the Ranchos and the Bilsteins are 100x better in every respect.

The will require some effort to compress, I suggest NOT using the crowbar method however.
If you have a copy of the maintenance CD (Tone's site), look for the shock removal/installation section. It details the use of a 'zip-tie', figure-8'd around the shock body to keep it compressed. Use a big zip-tie or two, and have a buddy help you compress the shock.

Holding the shock perpendicular to the ground and upside down, I put the upper (stud) mount on a piece of wood, and put all of my upper body weight onto the lower mount (I put a long bolt through the eyelet to help out my hands). I weigh just about 200 lbs, and after a few seconds the shock will move and compress to its shortest length. While holding the shock compressed, I had my wife loop the zip-tie around the shock body and over its 'shoulders'.
This is sufficient to keep the shock compressed for installation. Don't be tempted to run the zip-tie through the mounting eyelet, it'll damage the bushing and be difficult to remove.