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Thread: 3" lift kit, smart or not so smart idea....?

  1. #16
    Member Since
    Aug 2012
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    1999, silver,vehicross,0555
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    I lifted mine with the moog 784 springs $80 shipped, and 10 minutes in the shop to modify them. I think about 9 turns on the torsion bar bolt in the front. I can't see why you would want to spend any more money than this to lift a vx/trooper.
    I can see how building drop brackets would be nice for the vx if running the stock TOD system. I made a set for my RS trooper, but have not for the vx yet.
    The money saved on the lift can be used on heavy duty tie rods, which you will likely need if you wheel in the rocks much.

  2. #17
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    Feb 2009
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    It really doesn't sound like you need a kit. You can just buy springs and crank the torsion bars down a few turns to get a couple inches of lift for cheap... it worked for me

  3. #18
    Member Since
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    2001, Proton Yellow, VX, #0386
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    So I thought I was looking into independent4x and realized that this was not the same lift kit I was looking at. The ones at indy4x are much more expensive and include the following:

    OME progressive rate rear lift coils
    Independent4x 1" Coil spring spacers
    Rear 3 piece Extreme Duty adjustable link set
    Full 5 piece extended length Braided steel brake line set
    Heavy Duty front torsion Bar springs
    Front Ball Joint Spacers with hardware
    Low profile bumpstop kit
    4 Ranch 9000 XL gas charged adjustable shocks
    4 shock boots
    Front & rear poly sway bar bushing sets
    Independent4x rear lower coil spring retainers & hardware
    Front HD tie rods
    instructions
    decal

    Would I want to spend the $2500 on this kit, or should I try out the much cheaper Rocky-Road kit that possibly only includes just the shocks and springs?

  4. #19
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    Dec 2008
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    '01 Proton #0317
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    Oh yeah - be sure and put aside a BIG pile of extra $ NOW, for the CV joints, CV boots, U-Joints, and all the OTHER stuff you'll be breaking after you lift one of these - don't forget to do THAT too!

  5. #20
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
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    2001 Ebony S/C #1304
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGanzman View Post
    Oh yeah - be sure and put aside a BIG pile of extra $ NOW, for the CV joints, CV boots, U-Joints, and all the OTHER stuff you'll be breaking after you lift one of these - don't forget to do THAT too!
    Sometimes it is sad, but true.
    Gary Noonan
    '01 S/C VX / '18 Forester XT

  6. #21
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
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    99 Matte Midnight Sand Met... oh nevermind. VX #0377...Project ZU
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeckaTrebeka View Post
    So I thought I was looking into independent4x and realized that this was not the same lift kit I was looking at. The ones at indy4x are much more expensive and include the following:

    OME progressive rate rear lift coils
    Independent4x 1" Coil spring spacers
    Rear 3 piece Extreme Duty adjustable link set
    Full 5 piece extended length Braided steel brake line set
    Heavy Duty front torsion Bar springs
    Front Ball Joint Spacers with hardware
    Low profile bumpstop kit
    4 Ranch 9000 XL gas charged adjustable shocks
    4 shock boots
    Front & rear poly sway bar bushing sets
    Independent4x rear lower coil spring retainers & hardware
    Front HD tie rods
    instructions
    decal

    Would I want to spend the $2500 on this kit, or should I try out the much cheaper Rocky-Road kit that possibly only includes just the shocks and springs?
    This kit has a lot of really good lift parts, it's expensive but most of it's completely worth the price.

    However, you still need a diff drop which isn't included in the lift kit. Even if you just start with new coil springs and torsion bar crank, get a front 2" diff drop. It's essential to keep the CVs in good condition.

  7. #22
    Member Since
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    2001, Proton Yellow, VX, #0386
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXorado View Post
    This kit has a lot of really good lift parts, it's expensive but most of it's completely worth the price.

    However, you still need a diff drop which isn't included in the lift kit. Even if you just start with new coil springs and torsion bar crank, get a front 2" diff drop. It's essential to keep the CVs in good condition.
    Can't I just get those extended CV boots I saw somewhere on rocky-road? Is the issue with the CV joints that they start leaking lube at such a sharp angle?

  8. #23
    Member Since
    Feb 2007
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    2000 Proton VX - 0776
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeckaTrebeka View Post
    Can't I just get those extended CV boots I saw somewhere on rocky-road? Is the issue with the CV joints that they start leaking lube at such a sharp angle?
    1. CV's don't like agressive angles - causes them to wear out quicker.

    2. Your CV's have 'worn in'. With the lift, your bearings inside the CV will run at a different location in the outer race (green cup). The bearings moving into & out of that groove may cause them to fail.

    3. The agressive angle of the CV will probably cause your boot to split or even tear in two. That's the most common problem lifted VX's experience. If you don't catch it immediately, the joint will run dry & fail.

    So far, there doesn't seem to be much promise that aftermarket boots really last any length of time with the agressive angles. If you go that route, let us know how it works out for you.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  9. #24
    Member Since
    Dec 2008
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    My turn I guess. I lifted mine 4 yrs ago, OME 919s, rancho9000xl shocks, greasable sway bar bsushing front and rear, ball joint flip and low profile bump stops, front locker. I run 34" kevlar MTRs. I NEVER disconnect either sway bar, just installed the greasable bushings, no problems. I wheel mine quite a bit, Moab, KS, GA, NC, SC etc. I have minimal rubbing, only in the rear on descent braking, which is since the rear axle is raked so far forward. I removed the front fender liners and cut the bottom off of the front cladding.
    It handles fine, drove all the way form KC, MO to Seattle, stopped in Kansas and Moab for some wheeling. No issues, mid teens on MPG.
    I did do the diff drop when I installed the SFIFS kit. Sometimes wish I hadn't. Although it does straighten out CVs, I have since lowered the front back down, the offroad performance is significantly better than when I had the front cranked up high, which puts the CVs at a somewhat negative angle. CVs don't like that
    There is a downfall to the diff drop, it then changes the angle for the front prop shaft CV. I have already replaced that, and subsequently have another torn boot. THe boot is flanged in, so really no legitimate way to fix that without replacing it. I have manual front hubs, so I only "drive" the front end when offroading. It still spins at the whims of TOD, but not under load.
    I HIGHLY recommend the Ranchos without the incab adjuster, the stiff stock suspension is a killer offroad, dial the ranchos down to one and it is much softer on the trails. I street them all at 9. I also strongly recommend 919s instead of 912s or 913s. They are much stiffer, and a little taller, I have them in my wife's trooper as well. Bump stops are nice, but not a neccessity.
    I wouldn't touch the calmini kit, and would piece together your own form Indy based on what you want your truck to do.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  10. #25
    Member Since
    Jul 2005
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    Former 00' Kaiser #0804, 98 White 4Runner SR5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGanzman View Post
    Oh yeah - be sure and put aside a BIG pile of extra $ NOW, for the CV joints, CV boots, U-Joints, and all the OTHER stuff you'll be breaking after you lift one of these - don't forget to do THAT too!
    Well.. We are negative today arent we?

    Dont worry about this too much, its all relative to the amount of lift. Sure, over 3 inches and i would expect more repairs, but as long as you stay around 3" or less, its not that hard on the VX. I had mine lifted for 7 years with no problems of any of the things ganz mentioned. I didnt even do the allusive BJ flip. Just new springs, cranked torsion bars, and an alignment, off you go!
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

    "If You Can't Solve A Problem, It's Because You're Playing By The Rules."

    "The Perosn Who Doesn't Make Mistakes Is Unlikely To Make Anything."

    -Paul Arden

  11. #26
    Member Since
    Jul 2012
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    2001, Proton Yellow, VX, #0386
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    I'm thinking a 3" lift will do me just fine. I'm not planning on turning my vx into a mudder, or even an advanced off-road-er. Just want a little height with some 32-33" wheels. I found some BFG's that look really awesome for snow/trail driving so I'm going to be saving up to get those installed before the trip. I don't want to get into gearing yet, though...

  12. #27
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    The vx runs fabulous on road and off with the 3" lift and 33's. You will be happy

  13. #28
    Member Since
    May 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    The vx runs fabulous on road and off with the 3" lift and 33's. You will be happy
    I'll second that opinion!!
    3" suspension lift, shocks: Rancho 9000, tires 33"x11.5", wheels 16"x8", offset= 0, no front sway bar

  14. #29
    Member Since
    Feb 2007
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    2000 Proton VX - 0776
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    I did do the diff drop when I installed the SFIFS kit. Sometimes wish I hadn't. Although it does straighten out CVs, I have since lowered the front back down, the offroad performance is significantly better than when I had the front cranked up high, which puts the CVs at a somewhat negative angle. CVs don't like that
    Marlin,

    I have a set of unmodified diff brackets if you're interested.

    Tom

  15. #30
    Member Since
    Apr 2010
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    2001 Proton
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    Why not just do a 3" Body Lift. No increase angle on the CV's. I did it. Also keeps center of gravity lower for better handling on-road. ( Indy4x has the 3" BL kits )

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