When I fabbed up my hitch, I put bolts through the bottom of the plate that would prevent the hitch from bending up like this. That and I used a backing plate and 1/4" plate for the mount.
Mine aint goin nowhere.
When I fabbed up my hitch, I put bolts through the bottom of the plate that would prevent the hitch from bending up like this. That and I used a backing plate and 1/4" plate for the mount.
Mine aint goin nowhere.
2000 Black VX 105k
I will check the cross member for warp. The frame where my sliders were welded also oil canned (warped) when the sliders hit a rock. I had the frame reinforced with 1/4" steal. Word to the wise when installing anything on the Vehicross frame reinforce it.
Jeff
On my first VX, I installed Tone's hitch as per the direction, and didn't have any trouble at all. As far as what you can tow... anything withing the limits of the hitch, which is Class 3. People have towed cars, trailers, jet skis.... again... within the limits of it's class. The loops on the side are made for the safety chains attached to whatever trailer you may be towing, in case of emergency.
You say you were using the tow hitch and then the loops broke. Were you pulling the steak from the loops, or the hitch...or what? If you were using the loops, well.....it sucks, but the loops weren't meant for that.
Like Crager said, if you pull with the loops... They're only there for emergency purposes only and aren't designed for a steady pull. If you mounted the hitch properly with the included hardware (Grade 8 bolts) then you shouldn't have any towing problems. When you pull with the hitch, use the hitch ball as that's what it's for.
As for welding the hitch to the frame, Tone's model would require some modification as part of the fuel tank skid-plate is sandwiched in the installation. Also, for any frame welding you need to engage the services of a professional welder as the VX's frame is made from cold-rolled steel. Regular welding will severely weaken it, leading to sudden failure.
Grade 8 hardware used with backing plates and generous load spread will allow frame-mounted accessories such as the hitch to take a lot of abuse. But just bolting or welding things on without proper load design, also known as good ole common sense, is just asking for trouble with an engraved invitation.
Over 20 years of Isuzu enjoyment...
I've "jerked" other cars out of the mud with mine... I hook the tow strap to the pin that goes through the center... I've never had any issues. Use the hitch pin for pulling things out, not the chain mounts.
What you need to do is use a receiver tow hook like this:
Or like driver3 said use the hitchpin and go through the middle.
And if you are using chain get sand bags to put on the chain to weight it down.
If the chain snaps it will act like a whip. You want to reduce the risk of hiting something or someone.
Second the hitch when bolted using grade eight bolts should be able to bend the frame before braking off.
Remember the military trucks, their grendal hitches are bolted to the frame just like Tone's.
Make sure you use the proper hardware and lock washers and or nuts if you can't get it tight.
Last edited by JAFO : 07/21/2005 at 06:39 PM
The hitch was designed specifically for this vehicle (and tested with a properly loaded 5K lb trailer (but be aware of the 150lb tongue weight limit of the Trooper) many times before it was ever offered to anyone, just like everything else on my site) but it is not for jerking things out of the ground and certainly not by the chain hoops, LOL.
It does come with a backing plate, and if installed properly, it uses two of the existing holes already drilled in the rear frame cross piece. The hitch ships with four 1/2" Grade 8 bolts and Grade 8 Prevailing Torque lock nuts - washers (lock or otherwise) are not needed and do not offer any benefit. If the hitch is welded on after it is bolted (with no other mods) it would prevent removal of the gas skid plate or tank.
Last edited by Tone : 07/27/2005 at 09:31 PM