1) trimming. Do not use a dremmel as it heats up the cladding and machine gun splatters everything(ie- your eyes, nose, mouth, everything, etc...). Best is a angle grinder with cut off wheel. Map/mark your line first and then cut slowly steady and deliberately.
2) Wheels. First crank clockwise the Tbars bolts after you have front end off ground making your life easier. Measure from level ground from middle of wheels to beginning of cladding. Mine are at 40"'s . Should be one turn equal 1/4 inch. I have 3057017" Goodyear Wrangler MTR's on KMC venom rims. Which is about the equal of 33x12.5's. Not an easy task of making them fit. Undo cladding in front wheel wells closest to the doors, peel back and start cutting away and pounding back metal.Don't cut off the mounting bolt for the fender as you pound that back after you have shaved it really close to bolt and use it to mount wheel well plastic to hold it away from rubbing on BigFWheel. If this isn't possible then get some snips and cut plastic away from wheel as it gets quite annoying to hear it rub all the time against the wheel on turns and bumps. Have fun .Now you have cranked the crap out of Tbars and lifted your VX insanely, VERY CAREFULLY undo the outer clamp of the innermost(narrowest end) cv boot. Then push norrow end of the cv boot above the ridge that it was inbetween and put another clamp back on very carefully and very snuggly. This will allow your cv boots to not tear as easily from stress of lifting. Unless you get axle dropdown brackets and don't disconnect one end of your swaybars when offroading then you should be ok with just moving the inner cv boot up.
3) Skidplates. You can remove your front skidplate as you will not need it. Use diamondplate steel to fashion a skidplate that mounts up to the front tow hook bolt area and extends underneath VX to either crossmember just before Tcase or go the extra mile and make it extend all the way back to the crossmember behind Tcase..if you do this it would be best to make a dip to give Tcase clearance so as not to push up on Tcase when "Rock Feeling" .
Make it mount to the all crossmembers it covers. This is most efficient as you only will have one skidplate. I have one of Tone's skidplates that I got from Reg Hinnant. It only extends to middle crossmember and I have the Trooper Tcase skidplate. Man have I bashed that thing up, it is now pushing against Tcase when "rock Feeling" . I need to make an extension and go back further with it. Tone's skidplate had bracket arms extending from the skidplate up to the Towhook mounts in front. I cut these off and mounted skidplate directly to bottom of my winch bumper that mounts into the stock towhook bolt holes. I cut off the whole lower part of front cladding to allow for more air flow and cooler running temp...so under the cladding or over the cladding skidplate was not applicable to me as there was no longer any cladding there. You might want to get a steel gas tank skidplate replacement too as the stock one is not very strong and you do not want to bash your gas tank as it is in a week place. My tow hitch has saved me many times from this, but it still gets pushed up.
4) Your OME 912's will not lift enough for 33's. Unless you get the coil spacers for the rear. Get EXTRA stiff 3" longer shocks in the rear and use the front VX shocks untill death do you part. Any longer than 3inch shocks in the rear and you might want to wire your coils in place when offroading so they do not slip out of place and crush an expensive $1000 wiring harnes or other important items. You will need front and rear bump stop extensions and a rear brakeline extension bracket you can make yourself.