Creap or PBblaster for a penetrant.

Ratcheting wrenches (esp. 19mm for the top rear) will make life much easier.

Remember the orientation of the bolts/nuts as removed (most of the time the bolt heads enter from the front of the vehicle, and the nuts go on from the rear).

There will be a minor interference issue with the RS-Xs adjusting knob on the rear shocks if you install them with the knob facing to the rear -the know will need to face forward in order to clear the lower shock mounts.

If you are in doubt about the knobs' zero position, remove the two hex head bolts that hold the adjuster onto the shock body (there is a small gasket, but no danger of leaks as this is a mechanical adjuster). As you turn the knob, there is a 2 start steeply pitched threaded shaft attached to it. You can see how it pushes in on the shock's valve when turned CW. Zero it out (the shaft will be flush with the adjuster's inside face and add some (a lot) of white grease -this'll keep out contaminates and ease the plastic on metal contact). Reassemble, using some LocTite on the little bolts.

Other notes.
The Control unit isn't worth the hassle. Slow leaks abound. I just spent 3 hours machining 3 new manifolds in preparation for a hardline conversion, only to abandon the project due to apathy. I've decided to keep the compressor for onboard air possibilities though.

I drive 80% city, and keep the shocks at 6/8 front to rear.