Rancho RS9000X - Got Tips?

[Ldub]

Liquid wrench, or some other penetrating lubricant applied to the nuts you are going to remove may make it go better.

Also, turn the dial all the way, one way or the other, wichever way the corresponding number is pointing should be where it's read...I think.

Good luck, Ldub

[Heraclid]

Ok, the top number is the setting you're at. There is a very small arrow on the dial itself that I missed before. This shows the direction to rotate it - basically, clockwise = firmer and counter-clockwise = softer. It should turn pretty easily. If you're at a 1/9 and it turns clockwise easily, you were at a 1. If you're at a 1/9 and it doesn't want to go clockwise any more, you're at a 9, so don't force it because it isn't supposed to go around any more and you may break it.

[mbeach]

Creap or PBblaster for a penetrant.

Ratcheting wrenches (esp. 19mm for the top rear) will make life much easier.

Remember the orientation of the bolts/nuts as removed (most of the time the bolt heads enter from the front of the vehicle, and the nuts go on from the rear).

There will be a minor interference issue with the RS-Xs adjusting knob on the rear shocks if you install them with the knob facing to the rear -the know will need to face forward in order to clear the lower shock mounts.

If you are in doubt about the knobs' zero position, remove the two hex head bolts that hold the adjuster onto the shock body (there is a small gasket, but no danger of leaks as this is a mechanical adjuster). As you turn the knob, there is a 2 start steeply pitched threaded shaft attached to it. You can see how it pushes in on the shock's valve when turned CW. Zero it out (the shaft will be flush with the adjuster's inside face and add some (a lot) of white grease -this'll keep out contaminates and ease the plastic on metal contact). Reassemble, using some LocTite on the little bolts.

Other notes.
The Control unit isn't worth the hassle. Slow leaks abound. I just spent 3 hours machining 3 new manifolds in preparation for a hardline conversion, only to abandon the project due to apathy. I've decided to keep the compressor for onboard air possibilities though.

I drive 80% city, and keep the shocks at 6/8 front to rear.

[Heraclid]

mbeach, thanks - that's what I'm talkin' about!

Looks like I'll be attempting this tomorrow even though I wanted to get on it today. I'll be using my Dad's workshop, where PBblaster has been a staple in the cabinets ever since I can remember. Got a nice new set of ratcheting wrenches not too long ago and they should really help because they're a lot slimmer than sockets. However, I had not checked on the sizes yet, and the largest I have (in ratcheting style anyway) is 18mm. I'm glad you mentioned it, so thanks for the heads-up! I will have to see if I can get my hands on a 19mm ratcheting wrench.

Good tip on the bolt/nut orientations and clearance concerns. I have read magazine reviews of these shocks where the testers knocked off the adjustment knobs because they did not check for adequate clearances. The article admits they should have known. I've also read everything I can on this board regarding these shocks. Someone on this board managed to shear off the end of a bolt, probably because it was re-installed backwards as you alluded to.

The dial position isn't an issue now, but your tip is an interesting one and is appreciated. I'm just not too sure I want to tinker with disassemby (for me anyway).

As for the control unit setup, it sounds like a neat toy but I've read a lot about it leaking and so I wasn't considering it at all. The Pro Series version of these shocks (the ones with remote reservoirs) would have been nice though, but they're a bit too pricey for me right now. Plus I missed the big sale on these last month because other things came up. Drives me nuts, but that's how it goes sometimes. Anyway, these shocks have about 20% (17% I think they say) more capacity than their predecessors due to their triple tube internals and should still meet my needs for the occasional rallycross.

Thanks!

P.S.- While prepping for the install, I found out that getting the boots on the set of rear Ranchos was a serious challenge!

[Ldub]

Nice dampers David, hope you'll post your impression of them vs. stock.
Also, If you have them, would you post the part #'s of the Pro Series ones you mentioned?
Thanks, Ldub

[Heraclid]

I will definitely post my impressions after I've broken them in. As for your question on the Pro Series shocks, I'm in the dark on that one. I heard that they were $190 per shock and didn't get any further than that. I did some looking since you asked though, and I can't find part numbers for them anywhere. Even on the Rancho website, there's just has a link to a .PDF that lists numbers for extended lengths, and the extended Pro Series shocks (a) exceed our max stock travel even when fully compressed, and (b) they appear to only come in eye/eye configuration. If there are any appropriate for the stock VX, I can't find them.

[mbeach]

There are adapters for converting eye-stud shocks to eye-eye shocks. These are what I'll be using when I go to the Fox 2.0s next year.

[VehiGAZ]

Heraclid (or anyone else replacing their shocks for the first time) - if you haven't done the job yet, PM me with a phone number and I'll give you a call to tell you what I learned replacing my shocks a couple of weeks ago. I don't have time to type and post the procedure, although I want to share what I learned. It took me about 5 hrs, but if I knew what I was doing ahead of time, I could have done them in 3, I think.

[PeteVX]

From what i can remember when i did mine, the top rear left side bolt was the trickiest because its partially obstructed by the exhaust, mine was completely seized and i ended up cutting it off.

I like the ranchos but really want some softer springs to go with, its still way too hard a ride for me.

Anyone know if the Amigo springs would fit and do they have a softer spring rate?

I assume ours are the same as the trooper springs.

Pete

[Navigator]

From what i can remember when i did mine, the top rear left side bolt was the trickiest because its partially obstructed by the exhaust, mine was completely seized and i ended up cutting it off.
Pete

True, that is one tough nut to crack, but it you have access to a lift all you need is a foot of iron pipe to extend the leverage of the 19mm wrench and with the VX overhead, just lean into it to free that nut. No need to cut. Oh and spary the nut with WD40 and wait a minute first, It'll twist off easy.

I've been using the Rancho 9000's for over a year, and I must say I like them even better than stock for street use.