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Thread: Help quick!!

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Help quick!!

    I'm in the middle of doing a torsion bar lift and I need a measurement from somebody who's already done theirs. I've been measureing from the highest point of the fender arc and I am now up to 36.5" on either side. Can I go farther then this cause it's starting to make the front look high.

  2. #2
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    Torsion Bars...

    If you are trying to match a set of OME springs keep cranking. I can't give you any measurements as I have an Axiom. I did drive it around a bit while cranking, to settle the torsion bars in a bit, then remeasure. I had clearance issues so I cranked until the wheels didn't hit the inside of the wheel well. Then trimmed the front and rear of the wheel wells.

  3. #3
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    I don't have any measurements for you but I believe they are on the site somewhere. I THINK Grandpa bob (green dragon) had the same question a while ago.
    2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.

    2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the advice It helped. I stopped for today at the 36.5" mark and drove around a bit and they still rub in the rear of the well but not nearly as bad as before. I think I'll try and stay at this height and work on trimming the rear inside corner to get the rest of the room I need and then I'll get some pics up.
    Any suggestions on trimming that corner I'm talking about? I assume that there's metal behind that plastic.

  5. #5
    Member Since
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    '76 IH Scout II Tubed, 40"s, locked, etc
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    lifting/rubbing

    my lift in the front of my VX measures 39.5"'s from ground at center of tires to highest point of cladding arc. I am running 305/70/17's though which is about the equivalent between 33" and 34" by 12.5"'s. You did put taller springs in the rear of your VX didn't you??? because I have the Calmini springs in the rearend of my VX and my wheels DO NOT EVEN COME CLOSE TO RUBBING in the rear end of my VX.

    Now the front end of my VX with rubbing issues, now that's another matter. I have loosened the cladding and cut and grinded ALOT of metal away and relocated all inner and lower most wheel well panels back farther and they still rub if you turn toward the drivers side and hit a bump like a curb or gutter....even if they do not rub sometimes, they are STILL VERY CLOSE TO RUBBING.

  6. #6
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    The rear wheels are fine and I do not have any kind of lift springs, that's why I hesitate to bump up the frontend too much. I dont want the vehicle to become unbalanced or something. My tires are 285/60R18 about a 31" diameter so they should fit according to all the threads I've read about rim/tire upgrades. If I can just get a 3/4" - 1" more clearence on the door side of the front wheel wells I'll be all set. I'll try removing the wheelwell plastic and removing the metal behind it. Wish me luck!

  7. #7
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    the problem is not with the height of the tire.mine are about the same height, but in 16". the problem is the width. mine are 10.75" and yours are 11.50".does it only rub when you turn the wheel.what tires did you get? shawn
    1COOLVX

  8. #8
    Member Since
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    ...

    I was originally running 32x11.5x17 inch SSR radials before going with the 305/70/17" GoodYear Wrangler MTR's and still had a problem with rubbing, untill I did all the rest I mentioned. The problem was Width as well as heighth. When turning I had a problem...till I did some serious trimming...not minor as some claim, as I had to trim quite a bit off the front and cut a butt load of metal off the backside between doors and wheels by removing cladding bending it up trimming away most metal all the way back to the bolt mounting the fender, even trimming some of the actual nut back...then pounding it with a hammer to make mounting the inner plastic paneling from wheel well farther back and cutting away cladding between wheel and metal.

    Rear springs are very easy to install...so do the front right, for the time being though, better to look like the idiots in California who lift the front and not the rearend...instead of replacing the tires from being cut or destroyed by what ever rubbs, ie rivets, metal, etc... or ruining expensive cladding

  9. #9
    Member Since
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    This whole problem is the width for sure. Right now The only rubbing I get is about 3/4 of they way to a full steering lock in turns. I bought Mastercraft (Cooper) Avenger ST's which are mud & snow rated and to my surprise worked very well in the snow/slush/rain we got here on thursday (much better then the dulers). Tomorrow I'm gonna take a stab at removing some of the metal and reattaching the wheel well plastic farther back. Thanks for all the advice.
    -Rick

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