Emergency Brake Light...

[Cyrk]

Well Mine turned out to be my brake pads they had eaten into my front rotors and I was not aware till it was too late... I had gotten some race pads from Hong Kong from N1 wayyy back when and they had no indicator wear on them so they wore down right into my nice expensive Powerslot rotors. I ordered some OEM pads and a set of new front Powerslot rotors and after they were installed my Ebrake light is off... weird, was not aware that they were connected to the pads/rotors.

[psychos2]

the light comes on when your fluid gets low.so low fluid will also cause the light to go on. shawn

[Raque Thomas]

Well Mine turned out to be my brake pads they had eaten into my front rotors and I was not aware till it was too late... I had gotten some race pads from Hong Kong from N1 wayyy back when and they had no indicator wear on them so they wore down right into my nice expensive Powerslot rotors. I ordered some OEM pads and a set of new front Powerslot rotors and after they were installed my Ebrake light is off... weird, was not aware that they were connected to the pads/rotors.

NOT GOOD! It seems like it was not that long ago that you got those pads/rotors - are they susceptible to premature wear? I have been considering these rotors - what is your impression - would you recommend them?

[mbeach]

I've ran Powerslots on two other cars.
My wife's Jetta, with EBC (Greenstuff) pads wore very well for 10,000 city miles.
My old S14, with Z32 brakes (no ABS). Running Axxis Ultimate pads, I experienced no premature wear either.

I'd say the problem is more a fault of pad selection, rather than rotors. Powerslots are nice, but expensive. There are other options for slotted rotors if that's what you like. I'm now on a pretty strict budget, so I'm going to be doing some shopping around.

If your pads were that worn, the fluid resevoir in the MC was going low every time you stepped on the brake (trying to move the cylinders a greater distance requires more fluid to be displaced). This would cause the float in your resevoir to drop down to the point where it triggered the e-brake light as a warning that you were low.
If you top off the fluid at the time of the brake pad/rotor change, it'll only get lower as your pads wear (unless you have a leak). The e-brake light is a nice warning if you don't have wear sensors to alert you.

[Cyrk]

Brake upgrade has been GREAT! The problem I had was getting a racing spec pad form overseas that had no indicator wear on it so when they wore down that was it... bammm right into my rotors.. I guess I should have brought it in sooner, but it did not feel that bad. The Powerslots are great and now running them with the OEM pads it feels great also make sure you add some stainless steel brake lines, that has been a great mods with the other brake upgrades. PowerSlot rotors are certainly recommend by me.

[VCrossfan]

I'm in the market to upgrade my brakes also(rear rotors don't look to good) I've heard the "Slotted Rotors" are designed to shave the pads to keep them from Glazing over (in racing use) and the "Cross Drilled" have problems with hairline cracking (hole to hole). But maybe with ceramic pad's the street us time might be ok with the slotted. Cyrk I think I saved the link you gave us before on where you got your PowerSlot's. And the Stainless lines are a good Idea also. Cyrk I went through your Galley,,Very nice Ride and Super upgrades. Hats Off ! ! !

[Cyrk]

Thanks, just incase here are some links...

Rotors:
http://www.truckperformance.com/prod...sortorder=ADAA

SS Brake Lines:
http://darlington-offroad.com/catego...?UCIDs=1134065

Pads:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...rack&x=70&y=12