Another window fix.

[BritVX]

Just one point before we all go drilling holes out.
Sometime back before the site revamp I posted an alternative window fix that didn't require any drilling holes or bending runners etc.
Assuming the window mechanism on US versions is the same as the Japanese the following should work.
Having removed the door panel.
When looking at the lifting mechanism you need to feel (or look with a mirror) for the fixing screws that hold the window mounting bracket to the lift mechanism. On my VX these screws are in slots and my window was all the way back (towards the door pillar) in them, therefore the window fell forwards when it moved up.
I undid the screws pushed the window and mount backwards and tightened them up, it gave about 1/2" of movement. This was enough to balance my window and make it run up and down with out a problem, and that was 6 months ago.

There is a chance you don't have the slots but I think it's worth looking before drilling.

Col

[Bulldoggie]

I did this fix and it didn't have any effect. Not saying it's no good, just didn't work in my case. I can offset the bracket all I want to and the bracket will still pop away from the metal track. The bracket sort of rides a metal track and for me there seems to be way too much play in the bracket - perhaps too much slack in the wire it is raised and lowered by, allowing it to come away from the track? In my driver's side door, the left side of the bracket comes completely away from the metal track when the window gets about halfway up. The design is poor because one of the guides on the bracket is designed to grip the track, but they didn't make all of them that way. Go figure. Now I have to get back in there because since I tinkered with it I now have a door rattle. Anyone got any more ideas?

I finally pulled my door panel off, (drivers side)and the nylon nut tab was broke off from the window,(the one the regulator arm attaches to). I'm epoxying the tab back on the window, but I have to wait till tomorrow to see if it will hold. I quoted "Heraclid" because I also noted the regulator arm carrier is pulling away at the top of the track, (I'm using needle nose vice grips to hold in place while it cures.). It looks like if you placed a washer or two between the door frame and the arm track, it might align the track with the window up position better. I cannot test if it would affect the window down position, but I don't think so.
I did the other fixes while I wait for the epoxy to cure. I'll take a few pictures so I'll have them, just in case I put the washers in, to clearify my describtion.
The moisture barrier was gone so the windows have been worked on before.

[Bulldoggie]

Here is the picture.

[pbkid]

would u send me those photo's too? im gonna try and do both driver and passenger side this weekend. thanks. vteccars04@yahoo.com
pbkid

[Bulldoggie]

I did not take pictures of the spacers or washers, before closing the door back up, but in my photo, the bolts marked with the red arrows, are the upper track bolts, there are 2 more at the bottom of the track. I bought 1" #6 metric bolts, 4 per door and about 50 X 1/4" stainless steel washers. While the window was all the way up, I took out the upper 2 bolts leaving the bottom ones TIGHT.
Pushing the loose top part of the track outwards as much as you can with your fingers will give you the amount of washers to put in, BETWEEN the inner door skin and the track mount. (in my door it was close to ten washers)
After finding out how many to use, I rolled them like pennies in tape to hold them together, while putting them in place to bolt them. After tightening the top, I lowered the window all the way DOWN, and did the same with the bottom 2 track bolts. (almost the same amount as the top on mine)
This aligns the lift arm with the window guides, and keeps the window from wanting to tilt outward of the rubber guides.
Almost all VX's window are tight in the front, Hence the previous fixes.
I believe that after proper spacing of the track, unbolting the window from the arm, and like Bart's fix, make the arm bolt holes bigger in the rear to rebolt the window as far back as possible will take the friction out of the front guide. The rubber in my front guide was worn through from the glass, I'm suggesting this option as the front guide top is welded(by the Mirror), and NOT adjustable.
My window is working great and I can tell that it is not "fighting" to go up and down

[Mark B]

pictures please when you get a chance.
Mark
mark1500pvd@msn.com

[Bulldoggie]

pictures please when you get a chance.
Mark
mark1500pvd@msn.com

Post #27