How to Modify Front Wheel Hubs?

[transio]

Ok, I'm posting this in a new thread because the other one has some password box popping up (annoying)....

Anyhow, I want to modify my front wheel hubs to make them smaller (in length, not diameter) as follows:

1. I want to replace the cap and contents at the end of the hub (#6, 7, 8, 9, 10 in the diagram below) with a flatter one. A couple of people in the last thread said that this might be possible. The parts list pdf says #7 are the bolts, #8 is a flange, #9 a shim, and #10 a snap ring. I have no idea what these parts are. or how they can be modified or replaced. They seem to require that the cap (#6) protrude as much as it does, though. Any ideas what I can do... or who I can get to do this kind of work? Also, any ideas what something like this might cost me?
   
   
   
2. There are some hex-key type bolts (I think #7 above) holding the hub-face on. They each protrude about 3/8" from the hub face. I don't think I can machine them, because that would probably make it impossible to remove them. I'm thinking it might be feasible to find a lower-profile bolt, though, with a standard hexagonal head, to replace them. Here is my (simplistic) drawing showing the bolts' protrusion in elevation:
   
   
   

I'm leaning towards modification of the hubs here.... I just need some idea of how to proceed. Any information at all is appreciated.

Thanks!

[Joe_Black]

That whole assembly you want to shorten is what ties the front drive components into the wheel. If you want to remove that, go find a trashed 2001 Trooper S and swap the tranny and front hubs. You'll lose 4WD and TOD, but can then use your wheels. On the upside it'll be several hundred pounds lighter, get a little better mileage and feel peppier on asphalt.

[transio]

Joe,

A couple people said in the other thread that it could be shortened (not the whole assembly, but the cap on the outside of the hub) by replacing it with a "nearly flush" unit.

I dunno... like I told you in Hialeah, I don't know squat about this stuff, but it seems like the majority of the hub assembly is in the first 1-3/4" - the last 1-1/4" is just a few pieces (flange, shim, snap ring, and cap - whatever those are, lol).

I know I'm probably being silly and optimistic, but isn't there any way of shortening them AND keeping 4wd / TOD ?

Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease!!!

[Joe_Black]

Okay, here's the problem... The image you have is omitting a very important part: The front drive axle. Check out this photo from the service manual. The axle is coming through the center of the hub at the right. If you removed the cap (item 6 in your drawing, item 2 here) what you would see immediately under there is the end of the drive axle. You're not going to shorten your drive axle because you wouldn't have anything left to thread the hub nut onto, which holds the whole wheel assembly on.

I know you got a really, really sweet deal on those wheels. But they ain't gonna fit with the center caps. Like we talked about you may want to see if custom caps are feasible or just get the proper type of wheel. Maybe paint the hub or see if a smaller chrome cap will slide over it.

[transio]

Damn pesky axles !!!!

I see the problem now... BUT, there's still a possibility...

If I can replace the bolts (#1 in your diagram) with lower-profile bolts, I can get the wheels on... then it's just a matter of modifying the center-caps to protrude another 3/4" or so to fit the end of the hub.

I still think it's possible... and I haven't heard back from the dealer yet so it may be worth trying.

Thanks for the additional info, Joe. (And thanks again to everyone who helped me w/ this)

[transio]

Oh, btw... if I unscrew those bolts is some grease gonna come oozing out? Should I get a pro to do this for me? Also, where would I get the specs of those bots - dia., threading, etc.?

[morgan-tec]

All that cap shoud be is a dust cap on the bearings so you should be fine.;Dr;

[transio]

Thx, Mike!

PS:

Originally posted by transio
where would I get the specs of those bolts - dia., threading, etc.?

[Tone]

If you remove and run without those caps, grease will run out of the bearings. The cap is permatexed to the hub in addition to the bolts to prevent this. Shorter headed bolts should be Grade 8 or better and are probably a 14mm x 1.0 pitch (coarse) - the ones in there are in quite tight and you should remove one to get the proper length.

I’d still lean for boring the wheel out slightly, even at home since it is so close. As the wheels are not hub centric, if you are off a little, it won’t matter.

[transio]

The bore of the wheel isn't the issue... it's the "stroke" (if there is such a thing LOL)... and there's no room to stroke it out. It's either replace the bolts or put 1/4" spacers on the front, or totally screw up the face of my wheels (see how the spoke pattern extends over the hub?) Personally, I'd rather try to swap out the bolts first.

[thedutchguy]

DESPITE ALL THE INPUT FROM THE FORUM IT'S STILL ALL UP TO YOU !

[transio]

Ok,

Finally got new info on this issue. Lexani has some bigger caps that will fit the VX hub protrusion, but I'll still have to replace the hub bolts with some lo-pro's to make the whole deal fit right.

I spoke to my CSR at my dealer service center, and he was unable to get me the bolt specs. Can anyone verify these specs that Tone tentatively posted?

14mm x 1.0 pitch (coarse) Grade 8+

Also, does anyone know the length of the bolts? Any idea where I can get them?

Thanks for all the help everyone!

[Joe_Black]

Take one off and go to a good industrial fastener shop. They'll get you hooked up! Glad to hear about the center caps!

[transio]

Originally posted by Joe_Black
Take one off and go to a good industrial fastener shop.

If I take it off, how do I get to the shop?

[Joe_Black]

Take just one bolt out of the cover. Don't drive around like that all week, just to the fastener place and back home. ;pg;