Lots of lift Q's

[BBVX]

Nope, Spazz is right, by lowering the diff, you don't actually "lift" the vehicle. You just help straighten the CV angles.

My previous post was completely wrong and I apologize. I guess it was wishful thinking on my part.

Sorry,
Brian

[SPAZZ]

;Dp;

[Triathlete]

I think you guys are starting to confuse yourselves!

1.Springs, spacers,T bar crank lift your vehicle allowing bigger tires.
2.Bigger tires also add lift.
3.Drop brackets simply drop your axle to give your cv's less of an angle which equals less stress.

[BBVX]

OK, I changed the numbers, does this look right?

stock - no lift - 8.5" to front diff, 12" to front cladding

crank bars - 10.5" to front diff, 14" to cladding

crank bars w/ 33" tires (3" larger than stock) - 12" to front diff, 15.5" to front cladding this is my current setup


stock w/ 1.5" drop brackets - 7" to front diff, 12" to front cladding

crank bars w/ brackets - 9" to front diff, 14" to front cladding

no crank, w/ bracket and 33s - 8.5" to front diff, 13.5" to front cladding

crank, brackets, and 33s - 10.5" to front diff, 15.5" to cladding


See what happens when I try to help? :rollp:
OK, I'll shut up now.
Brian

[BritVX]

I've been following this thread with great interest as I'm planning my own lift, main problem being getting kit from the US but Tone M is helping me out.

I want to ask one more lift question:
Having read all the different threads on this subject some have said that cranking the Torsion bars has stiffened the suspension but I can't see how this is true. Cranking the bars raises the the front but you still only have the same weight acting down, you've merely changed the point at which the bars act, as I see it.
I'm concerned about this as the last thing I want is stiffer suspension as it's presently rock hard as it is, remember this is a Jap import to UK I don't know if the state side VX is softer. I know the stiffness can be down to the shocks but I don't want to change out to Rancho's if I don't have to, it's expensive enough already.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Col

[yal^]

I think I can answer this, and if I am wrong someone WILL correct me

NO, cranking t-bars does not stiffen the suspension.
It's the new springs that will change the comfort of drive.
There is noticeable difference in between Isuzu stock springs and OME springs. OME springs are much much beefier than stock. The ride becomes stiffer with new set up, but really doesn't loose on comfort.

For some, and I agree with it 100%, ride is actually more comfortable now, after the lift. Stock suspension is very stiff but it picks up any bump or rock on a road. Highway driving, unless pavement was absolutely perfect, was a real pain. Now I think the ride is calmer, because suspension is not so sensitive (is that the right word?)

[AlaskaVX]

I can't explain it but I have always been told that cranking the torsion bar does make for a stiffer ride.

So from what I am hearing I would have to crank the torsion bar 4.5"s Is that possible? How far can I crank it up with the torsion bar?

[yal^]

Then maybe I am wrong. Maybe cranking t-bars makes a difference besides height, but I trully believe most of it lies in springs...

[dstruction]

cranking torsions stiffens the ride. The tighter the torsion nut, the higher the lift, which in turn stiffens ride. I have my torsions maxed out. I'm using a calmini suspension and a 3 inch body lift. With my tires I gained roughly 10 inches over stock. Now all I need is to drop my front diff due to extreme drive axel angle.

[BritVX]

Thanks for your replies
Whilst I have to bow to practicle experience, as a design engineer I see no reason why the suspension should stiffen but I'm greatly encouraged by yal's comments on ride as mine is exactly the same way at the moment, very unforgiving of anything bigger than a raised white line!

Sorry for hijacking your thread AlaskaVX but I can offer some guidance on how far you can crank the torsion bar.

Whilst I haven't yet taken mine to bits, from photo's I see that the torsion bars themselves are splined at the end that fits into the crank point.
To raise the VX the Torsion bar needs to rotate counter clockwise on the left side and clockwise on the right, this can be done by turning the nut or by pulling the bar out(needs disconnecting at suspension end) and inserting it at a diferent point in the mating splines in the crank point, This is how I intend to make the lift and only use the nut for fine adjustment. This then gives you the ability to go father than is available at the nut if desired.

One word of warning. It must be noted that by turning the torsion bars to achieve lift you are shortening the track of your front wheels due to the suspension points moving on a radius. This may effect handling at speed. I put may as I'm unsure to what degree, obviosly the more you crank the shorter the track.

Please feel free to shoot this idea down, as I say I bow to practical experience.

Col