Lots of lift Q's

[SPAZZ]

the spacers are only for the rear lift.


the t bars are for the front lift.

but, to save cv's and keep ride height you drop the front axle.

best fix is to replace cv's with some high angle drivelines

[AlaskaVX]

So with the drop bracket installed how do I get 4.5" of lift up front, do I crank the torsion bar....
A) 4.5"
B) 3"

[Triathlete]

Answer is...




























...A

[AlaskaVX]

Now your catching my drift!!!!! WTF do they do then????????

[yal^]

That's what I thought SPAZZ...
Triathlete can you explain why you say it's 4.5"?
I was convinced it would be 3"...

[SPAZZ]

the drop down brackets save the cv's from the stress angle after lifting.

if you do not have a locker in the front, then you should be ok even with extreme wheeling. The cv's on mine are still good and I have not had a problem with my 32x11.5 Super Swampers.

Even with 33's you should be ok...only when you have a locker in the front should you be really careful...know when to use it...unless you have alot of $ to fix cv's when they go.


Alaska did you check your pm's???

[AlaskaVX]

Ya got the PM, I am just trying to do this lift right. I don't have the cash to replace CV's, and even with my 31" M/T tires my CV's pulled out of the hubs!!!!! Thank god that was covered under warranty! But now I'm out of warranty and want to make sure I do things right, so.... How can I get 4" of lift? I need to fit my 33" tires I have ordered, and I already have the 912 springs.

I'm still convinced that the bracket gives you an extra 1.5" of lift up front. I mean if you dropped your rear dif 1.5" you would get 1.5" of lift why does the independant front susp. not gain any lift????

[SPAZZ]

Triathlete was answering Alaska'a question in regards to the drop down brackets to lower front axle in relation to how much to crank the T-bars

[yal^]

Oh crap, I just realized what you both are saying!!!

Correct me if I am wrong: you crank T-bars to level up with new springs and polly spacers.
If Alaska installs 2" polly spacers with 912 springs, then T-bars need to be cranked 4.5", because this is how much height the new set up gives him. So after all the drop off brackets really do not matter with the chassis height, because his lift is going to be 4.5", according to T-bars.

Now, the drop off brackets will only take care of the IFS, so in reality he gets 4.5" lift, but his differential will hang 1.5" lower. And that's how much clearance he'll loose in order to ease the cv's angle...

But then I have another question...
With those 33" tires, is he going to gain back at least that 1.5" he is loosing by installing brackets? When you install bigger tires whole suspension goes up by the difference in height to a stock tires, right? Please enlighten me...

Oh, and one more thing. I was looking at those drop off brackets, and I was thinking, that even it they bring down IFS, they look like they lift the rest up by at least one inch. That's why I was confused with Triathlete's answer...

[AlaskaVX]

I see said the blind man to his deaf son!

OK, So I will crank the torsion bar 4.5" which will give me the lift but the drop bracket will make the CV's at a 1.5" less of an angle. So in other words the bracket allows you to crank your torsion bars 1.5" higher with the same CV angle

[AlaskaVX]

Originally posted by yal^

But then I have another question...
With those 33" tires, is he going to gain back at least that 1.5" he is loosing by installing brackets? When you install bigger tires whole suspension goes up by the difference in height to a stock tires, right? Please enlighten me...

Yes I will be gaining 1.5" with tires compared to a 30" tire. 1/2 the difference in lift. So in all the front diff will be 4.5" higher (4.5" from torsion bar cranking minus 1.5" from drop brackets plus 1.5" from tires) and the rest will be 6" higher.

[BBVX]

How's this??

stock - no lift - 8" to front diff, 12" to front cladding

crank bars - 10" to front diff, 14" to cladding

crank bars w/ 33" tires (3" larger than stock) - 11.5" to front diff, 15.5" to front cladding this is my current setup


stock w/ 1.5" drop brackets - 8" to front diff, 13.5 to front cladding

crank bars w/ brackets - 10" to front diff, 15.5 to front cladding

no crank, w/ bracket and 33s - 9.5" to front diff, 15" to front cladding

crank, brackets, and 33s - 11.5 to front diff, 17" to cladding


I think my math is right. The original 8" and 12" numbers are probably not right, they are just estimates for easy math.

Alaska, you know you don't NEED 4" of lift for 33s, right? Are just looking for 4"?

Hope this helps,
Brian

[AlaskaVX]

Uh-oh now I'm confused again. From what you are saying I will only need to crank the torsion bars 3" to get 4.5" in the front (to cladding). You are saying that I get 1.5" of lift up front (to cladding) when installing brackets, others say no? What is the right answer


I want to see some clearance so 4" is prefferable

[SPAZZ]

the lowering axle brackets do exactly as they state..."LOWER" they do not lift anything...........

[BBVX]

originally posted by Spazz:

if you take a stock VX and drop the axle 1.5 inches...then your clearance will drop to almost 7 inches instead of the 8.8

This is not correct. When you add the drop brackets (thereby moving your axle away from the body) you are "lifting" everything but your axle. Your clearance doesn't drop, the only way to lose clearance under your axle is to put on smaller tires.


originally posted by Spazz:

the drop down brackets do not raise the front...cranking the t bars raises the front.

This is half correct. They both raise the "front". The drop brackets raise the body away from the axle, and therefore away from the ground. Cranking the bars turns the short independent front axles down, "lifting" the front diff and front end.

One other thing, I don't think you can get 4" of lift by cranking the bars alone. I think 2" or 2.5" is about it. I figure I have about 3.5" of "lift" in the front, 2" from the bars, and 1.5" from larger tires.

I don't want to argue with anyone, this is the information that I believe to be true. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks,
Brian