I just had all my fluids done at 40,000 miles at an independant shop. Yes there is no dipstick and the tranny has to be filled from underneath and according to my mechanic it was a pain in the arse to do, they have to pump it in from underneath.
I had the transmission fluid and filter changed, the coolant flushed, both diff fluids changed and the transfer case.
Total bill came to about $450 which was using synthetic fluids (amsol i think).... i wouldn't trust it to quickie lube shops because there are some special requirements, additives that have to be added, different viscosities etc.
Also one lesson learned on mine, the transmission fluid gasket started leaking afterwards, so they had to order an oem gasket and redo it. It might have been a fluke but it looks like you should specify an oem gasket.
I did call the dealership for a price on the same work and was quoted about the same.
Pete