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Thread: losing oil? between changes

  1. #61
    Member Since
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Arrow

    I haven't experienced any excessive oil loss, but I do have a preference when it comes to PCV valves.
    The purolator PV1061 is the free floating ball type, rather than being spring loaded.It has a nice rattle to it when shaken, & should be easier to clean/re-use than a spring loaded type.
    Also, I check the oil EVERY time I fill gas...just in case.

    Ldub

  2. #62
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    On your PCV valve question, I have seen (and purchased) two different types - the first is a one piece design that mimics the OEM one, the second is two pieces. I bought the two piece unit (at Pep Boys - I think), because that's all they had. I started throwing "Lean on bank 1" codes not long after. The light would come on, then go off. Took it to the dealer twice, spent $68 to find out the PCV valve was sucking air sometimes because of the 2 piece design. Bought the one piece design and the problem stopped.
    "If you're not living on the edge --- you're taking up too much space!!"

  3. #63
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    2000 Proton Yellow VX 0586
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    Received my results from my oil consumption test.... my new motor is on order!! If any are having oil loss problems I suggest you get it in to a dealer if it's still under warranty and maybe you'll be getting a new one too!

  4. #64
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    Former owner of 01 Ironman #0723, 01 Dragon #0590
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    Offroad VX - Congratulations! It's about time Isuzu has had to foot a nice bill for some of our troubles.

    TechnoPope - Neither of my VXs have had any oil consumption issues *knock*knock*, both were city drivers prior to making the long haul up north. I'm curious about the oil flush and fill procedure you mentioned -it sounds like a good way to stir up trouble. Whenever I has switched a vehicle over to synthetic (either Royal Purple or Mobil 1), I have changed the oil(s) like normal. I simply reduced to interval from 5k to 3k miles for the first few changes. I never actually tried to 'flush' anything from the engine. I do change the oil immediately after the car has been driven and the oil is scalding hot (a leftover anality from my Bimmer days) -this seems to take more of the sludge-producing mung out of the engine with each change.
    You may want to look into the Seafoam engine cleaners that have been touted on here, it may be that your wife's VX might have lived its previous life dining on Quaker State.
    I use only Purolater filters and PCVs if this matters.
    Oh, and stay away from the Midas on Riverside Dr.


    EDIT: I have been crediting the wrong person for doing the research on the oil-pumping phenomena. Green Dragon has found the relevent articles, which can be located within this thread:
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ht=oil+pumping
    Last edited by mbeach : 09/09/2005 at 09:31 AM

  5. #65
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    It's funny that I resurrect this thread, only to post some bad news right behind my earlier (positive) post.

    Last night, (during a snowstorm no less), the wife's Dragon started burning oil.
    Well, to be exact, I checked the oil 300 miles ago (at fillup) and it was AOK, but last night, there was NOTHING on the dipstick. 1.5 quarts later and it was alright. That's some pretty heavy usage, even for a VX I figure.

    Well, here's what happened, and I suspect that I might not be the only one out there.
    While adding the first quart of oil, I noticed a slight amount of smoke/steam rising from the vicinity of the EGR valve -hmm, says I. I have the wife pour in the other .5 quart while I jam my head/hand/flashlight into the little nook at the left rear of the engine bay.
    We use a very light (0W) synthetic oil, so it's difficult to see -but there is a leak. It's a small cut/tear in the valve cover gasket, at the rear corner of the cover. When the engine is started, and placed under load, the oil pressure forces a small but steady stream of oil out of this breach and right onto the exhaust manifold/EGR pipe/valve where it is immediately vaporized. Very little smell, and almost no smoke. This leak went from nothing to serious in just a few minutes I figure.

    This is a 38k mile VX with an excellent service history. No work has been done to the heads/valve covers since it left Japan.

  6. #66
    Member Since
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    2000 Ebony VX #263 ****** VX-2 My weekend car
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    excellent sleuthing... thank you for sharing what you found.
    Anita
    2000 Ebony #263
    Original Owner- love her too much to part with her.
    AnitaProtich.com

  7. #67
    Member Since
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    My diagnosis was just confirmed.

    The nearest Isuzu dealer is 400ish miles away, so I took it to an "authorized Isuzu service center" here in Fairbanks.
    The tech there states: "she's leakin' pretty good" (at the valve cover gasket).

    The leak is nearly INVISIBLE as well. You really have to get in just the right position to even detect it. The stream is small, and only travels about 1.5 inches before it is burned off. The design of the valve cover seal is such that a small tear will become a major leak very quickly.

    I advise all drivers who are experiencing excessive oil consumption, or who have suddenly lost 1+ quarts of oil to check their valve cover gaskets thoroughly. This is not the only problem with the motor, but at least it's something detectable and easy enough to repair.

    The new gasket is on order and covered by warranty. YeeHaa.

  8. #68
    Member Since
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    2000 Ebony VX #263 ****** VX-2 My weekend car
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    I think this is an important enough post that it should be placed on the front page of the site so everyone will see it even after days go by and the thread moves down the list. What ya' think? Scott?

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbeach
    The nearest Isuzu dealer is 400ish miles away, so I took it to an "authorized Isuzu service center" here in Fairbanks.
    Ha be glad your 400 miles away from this dealership as they will fight to the death trying not to cover anything. Heck I just went there to see if they had a bolt for the front drive shaft since mine is stripped and didn't want to put it back in. They didn't have any there but would gladly order me one from Japan, "Would you like to pay for second day shipping?" . What would happen if they stripped that bolt while it was being serviced? (throw it back in there for you to never get it out)
    2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.

    2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......

  10. #70
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    Just picked her up from the shop.

    Leaking valve cover gasket -warranty
    Leaking coolant at intake manifold gasket -warranty
    Leaking coolant at heater tube -warranty

    Isuzu was actually alright to deal with, it was the 'local' dealer (same one AlaskaVX was referring to) that seemed to be the rusty bolt. I have to work through them to get anything done locally.

    Again, as a reminder, CHECK THOSE VALVE COVERS!

  11. #71
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    Arrow

    Glad to hear you got that resolved! I bet it was hard to see the leak with that 0W in there!

    Here's a good kit for finding all kinds of automotive leaks in any vehicle the easy way: UV Tracer Kit
    Over 20 years of Isuzu enjoyment...

  12. #72
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    OUTSTANDING!!! I too have experienced this issue and now have something to look for, other than...."oh, it's just something this engine does".

    Thanks (man I love this board)

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