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Thread: High output alternator

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Jul 2004
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    2000 Black VX 0363
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    ahh but what color is the rest of his engine.

    I'm willing to bet it aint yeller.

    If you want to color coordinate everything, you should get it done in red, to match the coils
    2000 Black VX 105k

  2. #2
    Member Since
    May 2002
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    2000, Proton Yellow, VX, 0584
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    But, wonder if he wants to match the firewall???
    Scott / moncha.com

  3. #3
    Member Since
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    my thinking is that he should make the alt red, since it provides the juice for the coils. If he wanted to take it all the way he could heatshrink all the wires in red to give it that truely ricer feel....

    Tad brought up a good point... after I read that I went out and looked up at my alternator and sho'nuff its corroded on the bottom. Some sort of protective covering might be a good idea for this part.

    (bottom of my t-case is also rusting, I'm not to happy about that at all)

  4. #4
    Member Since
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    2001, Proton Yellow, #0580
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    My T-case just started rusting too - musta been the salted roads I was on this past winter.

    -- John
    John Eaton
    Original Owner
    2001 Proton Yellow #580
    Atlanta GA

    http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
    http://vehicross.blogspot.com/

    "Metaphors be with you"

  5. #5
    Uhm,, aren't our T-cases aluminum? Sure you arent talking bout your tranny pan?
    Its the thrill of the chase

  6. #6
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    definitely not the tranny pan.. I know that part all too well.

    Its got dark brown stuff on it. I really didn't take the time to perform a spectrum analysis on the stuff, but I'm guessing its rust. I've got a couple spots on the frame and on the gas tank skid that are suspect as well.

  7. #7
    Member Since
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    Former owner of 01 Ironman #0723, 01 Dragon #0590
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    In the industry, that dark brown stuff is referred to as "gunk" (or mung, if it is moist). Seriously...
    The aluminum is porous, and any oil will seek into the microscopic nooks and crannies and 'stain' the surface. It is generally harmless, and if it bothers you it can be 'baked off' in an oven.
    The oxidation (white crust) on your aluminum bits will protect the parts. Scraping it off will just allow more of the aluminum to convert itself through corrosion. Anodizing is aluminum oxide. It's tough and protective, though in it's natural formation, ugly. Either leave it, or anodize it if you want it to be pretty.

    As for the rust on your metal (steel) bits, it's natural, and may be cleaned up and sprayed with a rust converting primer. I have rust spots all over my VX due to a hack-job break in attempt (hanger marks through the paint all over the door frames, finally culminating with a screwdriver pryjob on the passenger door handle). Now that the weather's drying out, I'll be touching up these spots with said rust converting primer. Available at any auto supply store. I'll seal the job with Krylon or Undercoating or truck bed liner (depending on the location). No big deal, especially on the underside of the truck where rust prevention was never a factory concern (galvanizing is only used on body panels, and only lasts until the surface is compromised -scratched).

    Sorry to go off track on the thread. I hate to see people stress out over a little bit of (unavoidable) corrosion.

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