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Thread: Window Regulator Guides?

  1. #1
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    Window Regulator Guides?

    The windows in the '01 Vehicross started to tilt and bind up.
    I presumed it must be the window ciips and ordered the SBC brackets.

    When I took the door apart to install them, I found that the windows clips weren't just unbroken, but that the previous owner had epoxied securely inplace.
    Upon closer inspection, it looks like the problem is the window regulator. Specifically, the white guides that keep the window moving up straight.

    Is there a way to replace these white plastic pieces, or do I need to find and order the VX specific (8972184630) window regulator?

  2. #2
    Member Since
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    1999 Ebony VX, 0209
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    Short answer, buy the regulator.

    Long answer, time for arts and crafts. You can use a white HDPE cutting board (dollar store specials work well) and a jig saw to create your own with taller guides for longer life. I have seen pics of it done on here, and it is a planned fix for my passenger window when it gets warmer outside.
    --------
    VX Status: Running Great! Build is coming along nicely...

  3. #3
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    ...I guess I'll get another 15+ years out of a new one.
    Maybe I'll save the old one, just in case.

  4. #4
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    I did find this: http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...-window-repair

    Says to spread the track to fit the warn plastic parts.

  5. #5
    Member Since
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    After the low-tech, lame bungee cord fix (that lasted about 2yrs while SLOWING window movement upward), I did this and haven't had any problems for 3yrs ....
    http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...884-Window-Fix

    (I did the simpler method shown in pic #3 of post 1.) BTW...I did have the saggy regulator guides too. The roller screwed to the arm prevents sagging. I also tried the washer/adjustment approach with marginal results.

    One of my brackets was cracked so I reinforced them with metal (custom-fabbed at home). That's also held for 5yrs. Those SBC brackets look like a great design. Brackets aren't what holds the regulator on the correct path though.




    For more fun, this thread has LOTS of posts on the window subject
    http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...w+track+roller
    Last edited by 89Vette : 01/15/2018 at 09:06 PM
    2001 Ebony VX and 1989 Custom 383 Corvette

  6. #6
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    This is amazing!

  7. #7
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    I still need to fix mine. Are you guys using the SBC kit or is there a cheaper deal available?

  8. #8
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    If you don't feel the roller fix will solve the problem and/or you specifically want new mounting brackets (regulator-to-window), the SBC option can't be beat. It's custom-made and metal....vs plastic OEM "holders".

    There isn't another option vs finding new/used factory parts.

  9. #9
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    By roller fix, do you mean the fix with the bearing? I was thinking about giving the slotting fix a shot.

  10. #10
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    Yes...roller bearing. My opinion is the slotting fix MIGHT help if you feel the white "fingers" and/or the regulator don't have a lot of in/out movement. (By in/out, I mean in toward the center of the car or outward).

    The slot fix may be worthwhile to reduce rotation of the window in the track. HOWEVER, the roller bearing addressed both issues. The bearing guides in multiple ways. Hopefully, I can explain this.....

    Set correctly, a bearing provide another "finger". This is a product of the length of the "shaft/screw" it's mounted on. If close enough to the window rail, the edge/side of the bearing acts like another "finger". This stops additional regulator "sag". The face (rolling edge) of the bearing limits movement 90-deg from this. That pressure keeps the window from tilting/rotating in the track.

    Stated in cartesian coordinates....the side of the bearing keeps the window from sagging out of the x/y plane. The rolling "face" of the bearing keeps the window from rotating clockwise/counter-clockwise within the x/y plane. Movement out of the x/y plane is a result of poor (plastic) regulator parts. Rotational movement within the tracks is due to the inferior brackets that attach to the bottom of the window. The later may be exacerbated by the accuracy of the mounts....which is why a few have found improvement slotting the mounting holes. If you DON'T have issues with the plastic parts, slotting might help.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to 89Vette For This Useful Post:

    Dare2Dream (02/11/2018)

  12. #11
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    Thanks for the explanation, that is quite helpful. I need to look more into the bearing fix. Last time i looked, it wasn't clear what other materials were required and if it uses existing holes or new ones. The two youtube videos are unfortunately missing. Did you do the bearing fix on your VX and do you remember all the materials you purchased, the sizes and where you purchased them from?

  13. #12
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    If you haven't already, look at the thread I linked on line 2 of post #5....specifically, the 2nd picture in post #11. That's how I did mine (of the options shown in that thread).

    Basically, buy a roller bearing (similar/same) as the one pictured (2nd pic, post #11). Buy a screw around 1-1.5" long (you'll figure it out). Also buy a couple of nuts and a few washers SMALLER than the OD of the bearing. They'll probably be about the size of a dime. The idea is to sandwich the inner ring of the bearing with washers (or maybe a nut -- as shown). The REST of the screw will go threw the window-mounting bar...and stick out. In the picture, the guy passed a screw through a washer, the bearing, another washer, a nut, a washer, the window bar, and a nut. (Possibly...one final washer AFTER the window bar?)

    On mine, I just used 3-4 washers BETWEEN the bearing and the window bar. Instead of being tightly cinched TO the window bar, the bearing will need to sit out maybe 1/8-1/4". This is necessary for it to "grab" the window regulator guide. You want don't want much space....just enough to grab the lip JUST LIKE THE WHITE PLASTIC FINGER in the picture. In essence, you are improving on the design/durability of that finger -- like the person who designed the METAL (SBC) brackets used in place of the OEM window mounts. (I strengthened mine by bending a piece of metal around them...kind of like a binder clip.)

    How the bearing works.....When you mount/clamp the inner ring of the bearing WITHOUT clamping onto the outer ring, it will still spin. That sandwiched black middle "ring" of the bearing is recessed and is where tiny ball bearings live. It's recessed so you won't clamp it too. The outer ring "rides" on the bearings which ride on the inner ring. Hope that makes sense on how a roller bearing works.

    To install, you'll need to detach the window and lower it to the bottom of the door....then remove the regulator so you can drill a hole in that window mounting bar. (I think it helps if you loosen all the regulator bolts before taking down the window. I also recommend marking all the bolt positions before you loosen them -- to make reinstallation easier.

    As previously explained, the roller bearing serves as much as a "grab finger" -- like the OEM white "finger" as it does a rolling bearing. I didn't observe how much the bearing actually TURNS as the window goes up/down. It might mostly slide? Or...half/half? I just followed the thread and used that approach -- which worked VERY well. It may also help to let you know the metal-to-metal contact (between the roller and the metal guide) don't squeak. So....It probably IS rolling more than sliding.

    If my explanation still doesn't help, remove the inner door panel and compare to the linked thread. You'll figure it out. It's actually fairly easy to work on compared to what's inside a lot of doors!!!! P.S. Having a helper may come in handy when dealing with the loose window....during regulator removal/installation. I managed it on my own....but cussed a couple of times! LOL

    Hopefully, Steven Colbert will mention me on his confessions segment! ;-)
    Last edited by 89Vette : 02/11/2018 at 11:28 PM

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    Dare2Dream (02/14/2018)

  15. #13
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    Wow, what an incredibly good explanation, all in words. Thanks!!

    The contraption in post 1 of that thread was throwing me off. This is much simpler to manage for getting the parts and installing it. LOL on the Colbert confessions, that totally qualifies for the segment!

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette View Post
    If you haven't already, look at the thread I linked on line 2 of post #5....specifically, the 2nd picture in post #11. That's how I did mine (of the options shown in that thread).
    Do you by any chance remember the specs/size of the bearing you used? From the picture, it looks like the bearing is 2 or 2.5 cm wide, maybe 1 cm deep.

  17. #15
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    That's about right. I think your guesstimate is pretty darn close. Maybe a bit narrower than 1cm. Remember the exact size isn't critical. Just the spacing/location drilled/installed against the rail.

  18. The Following User Says Thank You to 89Vette For This Useful Post:

    Dare2Dream (03/07/2018)

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