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Thread: Persistent EGR problem... not the tube or valve...?

  1. #1
    Member Since
    Sep 2003
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    1999, Black, VX1, 0813
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    Angry Persistent EGR problem... not the tube or valve...?

    My truck has, for the last 5 years, been intermittently (but regularly, about 50% of the time) throwing a P0401. I have cleaned out the EGR tubes a half dozen times and replaced the valve & gasket with a new one 3 times. It won't go away.

    The tubes are definitely clear. If I remove the valve while the engine is running and put my finger up to the holes, I have forceful blow from the exhaust system into the valve, and great suction going into the engine from the valve.

    Is there something OTHER than the tube and/or valve which could cause the P0401 code to be thrown? Did I just get unlucky and have 3 bad EGR valves in a row (they are all different brands, Delphi, Standard Motors, Evan-Fischer)?

    I'm at my wit's end, and my registration deadline is looming in a month, I need to put this problem to bed once and for all. Is there a way to reprogram the computer to ignore this and still pass smog...? I know the system is working, the code itself seems to be in error.

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Sep 2003
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    Oh yeah, forgot to mention, I also replaced the intake manifold gaskets a couple of years back too. I probably did that based on this thread:

    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...threadid=22081

    Could they possibly have gone bad again...?

    I see in that thread it could be the Vacuum Control Solenoid...

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
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    2001, Proton Yellow, VX, 1379 (sold)
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    Good luck! I'm on my 5th EGR valve (original, 3 NAPA, 1 $45 eBay generic), so I feel your pain. I thought there was something wrong with my wiring or computer, but all failures were diagnosed as bad EGR valves. The NAPA valve is (technically) still under warranty, but I replaced it with the eBay valve just to see what happens. So far, so good.

    I always used a new gasket, and my tubes were never dirty. Just a little build-up on the pintle of the original EGR, but that's to be expected after 135,000 miles. It's always the electrical internals, not the mechanicals, that seem to fail in my case.

    Hope you resolve the issue and pass inspection.
    Gregg
    2001 Proton Yellow #1379

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Sep 2003
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    It's somewhat encouraging that it could just be yet another bad EGR valve... So for you, the cheap ebay one seems to be good (so far), but the Napa ones not so much. Of the 3 brands I went through, Delphi, Standard Motors, Evan-Fischer, none of them seemed to last any longer than the others. I do not know what the brand was on the original that lasted 10 years. Has anyone out there discovered an EGR that might be a bit more hardy than the others?
    Last edited by KILNA : 06/04/2015 at 09:36 AM

  5. #5
    Member Since
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    Hmmm, it seems there is a GM manufactured ACDelco 214-1080 which is very likely the one that originally shipped with the car (that in turn lasted 10 years). It's the most expensive one I see, but if it fixes the problem for another decade, it'll be worth the money. I'm going to give it a go on a FOURTH replacement EGR valve. Cross your fingers for me, folks!
    Last edited by KILNA : 06/03/2015 at 11:51 AM

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Oct 2014
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    2001 Ebony VX 1092
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    Fingers Crossed! Let us know how it works, I'm experiencing the same issue..

  7. #7
    Member Since
    Oct 2012
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    2001, Proton, 0586
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    I just made a block off plate from Coke can and decided to ignore the CE light . In my case, I no longer have to worry about the inspection . Fuel economy is as good as ever been!
    96 Eclipse Spyder GSX (already turbo, AWD swap)
    93 Eagle Summit AWD (4G63 turbo swaps)

  8. #8
    Member Since
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    Yeah, unfortunately the State of California is not as cool with ignoring the CEL codes, especially when I'm hooked up to the emissions machine.

  9. #9
    Member Since
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    Can you just get it to work every year (or two), whenever you have to get inspection sticker?

  10. #10
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
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    2000 Ebony VX #263 ****** VX-2 My weekend car
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    My "most beloved" Isuzu mechanic would say not all Egr valves are created equal. He has seen enough VX's through these 16 years to write a book about them. Kilna, if you want another informed opinion on the subject Pm me.
    Anita
    2000 Ebony #263
    Original Owner- love her too much to part with her.
    AnitaProtich.com

  11. #11
    Member Since
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    If that's the case then it would appear that the ACDelco part is the best candidate, I've already purchased one, it's going into Tank this weekend. Made in America rather than China, it doesn't seem to be a brand that people have been commonly using as failing replacements, and is very likely to be the same part that the VX shipped with. The persistent problem of failure after failure only seems to be showing up in later years in the forums here, which means the original part is probably better than what people are using to replace it. Hopefully ACDelco is still making them the same way that they made them a decade and a half ago.

  12. #12
    Member Since
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    2000, Foxfire Red Mica
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    Yeah, I'm on my fourth EGR valve. This one has less than 1200kms on it and it started throwing the code today.

  13. #13
    Member Since
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    2001, Proton Yellow, #0580
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    I'm on my third. Thus far no problems for the past 4 years or so...and yes it was an Isuzu boxed replacement...
    John Eaton
    Original Owner
    2001 Proton Yellow #580
    Atlanta GA

    http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
    http://vehicross.blogspot.com/

    "Metaphors be with you"

  14. #14
    Member Since
    Aug 2005
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    1999, silver, 0887
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    Just call Zach at Isuzu Parts Center.com and get an OEM.

  15. #15
    Member Since
    Sep 2003
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    1999, Black, VX1, 0813
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    OK, so I went through the tests I found here:

    http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4....-valve-tests-6

    I translated them into my own doc to make them VX specific:

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...CvhzSrsJzmSeQ/

    I have every indication that my current and previous EGR valves are OK based on the tests recommended.

    In the process of replacing the Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid (2N1001) (referenced elsewhere here as the Vacuum Control Solenoid)... I noticed one of the hoses was cracked, and perhaps leaking... I think I've fixed this with a zip tie (it was too hard to get to in order to put a metal hose clamp on it).

    Also, when my new EGR valve came, I noticed that the ACDelco gasket felt like it was cardboard sandwiched outside of a metal center... my old gasket was just a piece of aluminum. Perhaps there was a leak? I've put the new part in (though I now have 2 old EGR valves which test OK)... I'm clearing the code and seeing what happens. Wish me luck!
    Last edited by KILNA : 06/07/2015 at 10:14 PM

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