Persistent EGR problem... not the tube or valve...?

[workmeistr]

Hi, has the ACDelco EGR worked for you? I'm throwing P1404 code after replacing mine with a new EGR 8 months ago. Thanks, Bren.

[WormGod]

I'm on my 3rd. Second (ACDelco) failed me within about 3k miles. Ended up going with the more expensive GM (through RockAuto) and it has been fine for the last 15k miles.

[workmeistr]

Cool, thanks. I'll order one tomorrow in anticipation of throwing the code again in about a month.

[KILNA]

So, it's a year out and the EGR codes have remained gone. The EGR valves (both the old ones and the new replacement) all tested fine... the root cause must have been that cracked hose which was causing the bad reading. Make sure all your hoses are secure and not cracked. Specifically, the one that cracked for me was one attached to the lower portion of the right-hand (driver's) side of the intake manifold. I repaired it with a 2¢ zip tie.

If you have a problem that doesn't go away after replacing the EGR valve and cleaning the tubes, then use this troubleshooting guide:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...CvhzSrsJzmSeQ/

...if everything checks out as per that guide, it MUST be a problem elsewhere, like the cracked hose I found.

The moral of this story is if you get an EGR code, it might not be your valve. It might not even be the input and output tubes for the EGR valve. It might be a hose leak elsewhere in the system, be SURE your hoses are in good shape.

[workmeistr]

Good info., Kilna. I'm only on my first replacement and will probably throw one more valve at it before looking elsewhere. I have never cleaned my tube. I got the trombone cleaning brush but will see if I clean it this time around depending on the deposits on the valve. I'm reluctant to pop off the throttle body as I'm afraid I will introduce a new air leak. Is there a throttle body seal I should have on hand just in case?

WormGod, here's what I see on Rock Auto now; are you referring to the Delphi as the "GM"?

AIRTEX / WELLS 2M1 AdvanTech $80.79

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS EGV589T T-Series $92.79

AIRTEX / WELLS 4F1139 Includes Gasket $97.89

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS EGV589 $103.79

DELPHI EG10175 $112.79

[KILNA]

Good info., Kilna. I'm only on my first replacement and will probably throw one more valve at it before looking elsewhere. I have never cleaned my tube. I got the trombone cleaning brush but will see if I clean it this time around depending on the deposits on the valve. I'm reluctant to pop off the throttle body as I'm afraid I will introduce a new air leak. Is there a throttle body seal I should have on hand just in case?

WormGod, here's what I see on Rock Auto now; are you referring to the Delphi as the "GM"?

Generally speaking, Delphi=GM

There is a gasket, mine was in good shape when I cleaned the EGR from the inside, but you may want to pick one up, they're not expensive:

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-61034-...dp/B000C2G81G/

You'll probably want to check out this thread for info on how to get the throttle body off:

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...Cleaning-Video

Also, make sure to check the suck/blow on the EGR valve input and output, both before and after cleaning (that way you'll know if you likely fixed the problem). The big hole in the back should have strong exhaust coming out of it, and the small one should have decent suction. I think the most common cause of EGR codes is the smaller tube coming from the EGR valve to the intake, which is far more difficult to clean. It's basically impossible to clean it out right unless you open the throttle body and come at it from the front too, since it has a hard right-angle in the tube only a few inches down. You have to come at it from both sides, even with the trombone brush... it doesn't seem to be able to go around the curve.

[workmeistr]

Awesome info., thanks for taking the time, Kilna. I'm going to order everything in anticipation of doing the whole job. Armed with all the info., not too danting of a task. Thanks to all, Bren.