Prospective VX Buyer

[RedProwler99]

Thank you for the info. I have a lot to learn, so forgive the questions! Just to clarify, what is "JDM"? Japanese models?

[VX KAT]

Thank you for the info. I have a lot to learn, so forgive the questions! Just to clarify, what is "JDM"? Japanese models?

yes..."Japanese Domestic Market"....but they're also the ones that went to the UK and other non-US destinations.

[8695Beaters]

***UPDATES*** I drove 150 miles to test drive this particular VX. Basic impressions: the exterior is very rough. Clear coat peeling on the hood, all plastic faded, couple of nicks are showing surface rust, headlights are cloudy, and the passenger door plastic is missing a screw (current owner said he replaced it when he bought it and broke a screw removing the old). Roof rack is a factory Yakima rack with Vehicross logos. Before it was in Kentucky, this was an Ohio truck. The chassis is surprisingly clean. No surface rust and very solid. Exhaust was loud, but intact and the rear end showed no signs of off-roading. In fact we took it on a bit of rough grassy hill and the owner claimed it was the first time he'd ever been off-road in it (low range worked perfectly and we climbed a 30* slope easily on bald, dry rotting Nexens. Impressive!!!). The leather has seen better days. The seats are all cracked, though they haven't split yet. The center console was ripping where the driver's elbow rests. And the Ohio owner apparently added some ricey shift knob that comes off in your hand. Ugh. None of this stuff really scares me. A long weekend with some cleaners and a few beers will take care of all of that stuff. Tires obviously aren't cheap, but that just gives me an excuse to pick exactly what I want (I spent a semester in college learning about tire construction and two different summers selling and installing tires. I'm slightly picky when it comes to my car's rubber lol). It had also been sitting so the battery was dead. It was holding charge after the test drive, but I will likely replace it if I buy it (Optima!!!).

The reason I didn't say yes right away was because there were a few other things that worry me and I want to get some opinions.

1) The ABS light and TOD CHECK light were on when I got in. We ended up replacing the ABS fuse and the TOD light went off and I noticed the front wheel indicators began changing (instead of showing full RWD). I understand the TOD and ABS share sensors, so fixing the burned out fuse would explain why the TOD came back. But there's still no ABS (or at least the ABS light was still on. I did not get the ABS to engage nor did I lock the tires. Just wasn't slick enough). I'm hoping it's just a sensor, but after doing a forum search it seems the ABS modules can go on these too. What are the chances it's the ABS module and not just a sensor? Or with the fuse back in place, does the ECU need to be scanned and reset to get rid of a fault code?

2) We heard some really strange noises coming from the transfer case. There was some clunking and whirring. Once when we were exiting an off-camber driveway (owner said it was the TOD doing its job, but we hadn't swapped the fuse yet, so I don't think it was working). Is this normal or a sign that the case has some unresolved issues? Maybe just needs a fluid flush?

3) The windows stick as they close. I searched the forum and saw a lot of solutions, but no cause of the problem. Why do the windows cock sideways in their tracks? I saw one solution that used a lubricant. Am I going to have to disassemble the doors? I live in an apartment complex and don't really have a good place to disassemble a car. I could feasibly tear down the door, I would just rather not if I don't have to. I have to scan my ID badge to get into my work's campus, so functioning windows is a pretty high priority.

4) The steering had a good amount of on-center play. According to the forum, tightening the lash in the steering box will solve this. I am hoping it's just the backlash needing some tightening, but with this amount of mileage, I'd hazard a guess that the linkage needs some work too. What type of steering linkage is it? If the rack is a recirculating ball, I'm guessing the linkage is a pitman arm and a long tierod? Which of those usually goes first? All my cars so far have used rack and pinions so it's been easy diagnosing steering issues.

5) How long do the transmissions last in these? This truck has 138,000 miles (not 78,000). My CR-V had a trans rebuild at 120,000. Honda's autos are awful, so this isn't surprising. But autos have inherent wear parts and need occasional rebuilds. However I simply can't afford to have the transmission go out on me. Both in terms of time and money, a blown transmission would shaft me badly. How long does the Trooper/VX transmission usually go before it needs a teardown? The transmission stuck in gear once while coming up to a light, so I'm a bit worried it may need a major service soon...

I feel like some of these issues could be resolved with a full service and flush of all the fluids. The oil were recently changed. This particular VX is a great base (especially at the price range it's in, which I'll reveal once I've made my decision) and if it was going to be a pure project, I'd have no trouble buying it. But since this will be my daily driver, I need to be sure I don't have any potential landmines . What are your all's thoughts on some of these problems?

And if it turns out this VX is too much of a basket case, I will keep looking because after driving one, I am HOOKED. Definitely lives up to the hype. Thanks for reading this exceedingly long post and thanks for the help. Again.

[Mile High VX]

1) The ABS light and TOD CHECK light were on when I got in. We ended up replacing the ABS fuse and the TOD light went off and I noticed the front wheel indicators began changing (instead of showing full RWD). I understand the TOD and ABS share sensors, so fixing the burned out fuse would explain why the TOD came back. But there's still no ABS (or at least the ABS light was still on. I did not get the ABS to engage nor did I lock the tires. Just wasn't slick enough). I'm hoping it's just a sensor, but after doing a forum search it seems the ABS modules can go on these too. What are the chances it's the ABS module and not just a sensor? Or with the fuse back in place, does the ECU need to be scanned and reset to get rid of a fault code?

My ABS light was due to the module going out. I had it rebuilt for about $100 which is less than any of the sensors will cost you if you have to buy them new. They are available from salvage yards from other Isuzus with ABS. You can find the information on the rebuild here on the forum. The shop I used is in TN and I just removed the electrical part, sent it off, put it back when the repaired part was returned. Vehicle can be driven with the electrical part removed and no need to flush the brakes once it's put back in.

Many of the members here have had that issue as it is a common problem. Some fix it, and some don't. Just depends on your preference for ABS or not.

[8695Beaters]

In my experience of buying used cars it's not "stock" or "modded" it's "does the owner keep records?" I'd be far more wary of modded cars. Just because someone took the time and effort to personalize their car doesn't mean they did it right! But if you have records, receipts, and service histories, you know the owner has taken good care of their car and you know EXACTLY when service items were done.

Case in point, I did end up buying the VX I kicked this thread off with. It had 140,000 miles on it and the diff and transfer case fluids had NEVER been changed. The diff oil was like river water. Very, very thin, and very, very dirty. I flushed both diffs and the transfer case (twice with the t-case) and most of my drivetrain noises disappeared. I also swapped the spark plugs, which were so old they had actually rusted to the cylinder head. I'm pretty sure they were also original. I got immediate improvements in gas mileage and acceleration.

Point is, stock or modded, if the old owner(s) is lazy, cheap, or incompetent, you're going to have problems no matter what used car you're shopping for.