CV Axle Shaft

[PK]

The TOD system is very sensitive to tyre rolling diameter.
Not only must all 4 tyres be the same size, they must be the same amount of wear, and the same pressure within a few PSI.

Mile High is correct about removing the complete axles - first you have to drop the diff down. Most only replace the CV joints from the green cup out, provided the green cups are in good condition.

PK

[Merrell90]

I see, do the inner axles that go into the differential wear down quickly in this condition? Also, What would explain the clunk noise when the TOD %100 engages/disengages? To replace the shafts, it would be outer axle shafts?

[JoFotoz]

With regard to the axle shafts....

I'd suggest only doing the outer .. "Half Shafts" initially.

Basically from "Green Cup" outward on each side.

This is usually the culprit with clicking etc on tight turns...
...and also when TOD kicks in...as this loads them up and
cause binding/clicks not always noticeable when TOD is
not in "action"

When doing this, check condition of inside of "green cups"
for excessive wear and fit of new races.
If OK.. you should be good..if sloppy... entire new axles may be needed.

What replacement axles are you using...some are good..
...some NOT so much!

The Sur Trac replacement axles are very good if not used for aggressive
off roading.
The race/balls and tolerances are up to OEM spec.

Cheers

jo

[tom4bren]

I see, do the inner axles that go into the differential wear down quickly in this condition? Also, What would explain the clunk noise when the TOD %100 engages/disengages? To replace the shafts, it would be outer axle shafts?

The green cup is actually the outer race of the CV joint. If you're getting the clicking sound then it's likely that the green cup has some divits worn into the grooves where the bearings ride (that was my finding on a statistical sample of one).

Most people end up just needing to do a good cleaning - new grease - new boots ... but a few of us weren't so lucky. I was able to find a shop that ground out the grooves on the green cup and then installed oversized bearings. That worked fine for me. Another member found a shop that filled the grooves with a welder and then machined them back to OEM tolerances. That worked out well too. Everyone else that had excessive wear of the joint either went with SureTrac shaft replacements or were able to source a set of used shafts from the boneyard.

My recommendation is to just try the boot replacement first. Even if the clicking persists, then you've bought yourself some time to source new shafts.