yup, same here. When I bought my vx it had just had new rotors and pads and it was still seeming "mushy." my much heavier h3 stops a little better, even with heavier tires and wheels.
Super VXer
yup, same here. When I bought my vx it had just had new rotors and pads and it was still seeming "mushy." my much heavier h3 stops a little better, even with heavier tires and wheels.
Super VXer
I'll be doing a full brake job later this summer (calipers, rotors, SS lines). I have a sticking rear caliper that caused the rotor to get scored so I figured that while I have the system open, I should do the whole shootin match.
The only other upgrades I can think of to cure mushy brakes would be an aftermarket proportioning valve (adjustable) & maybe a better booster (but I have no idea what donor vehicle would work).
Another upgrade for better braking would be a drive shaft brake ... but you're looking at $$$ to get'r done. That's not an option for me though since it would install where I have the drive shaft quick disconnect installed.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Super VXer
Tom, quick word of advice when doing your brake job this summer; do NOT leave the system, or at least the master cylinder, open for very long. I did the same as you a few years ago (replaced rotors, pads, painted calipers and installed stainless steel lines) and I left the system open for a few days while I got all of that done. Once I put everything back together the braking seemed even worse than it did before. The VX would stop OK, but if I kept my foot on the pedal it would eventually go to the floor. Finally figured out that some of the seals in the master cylinder were bad and had to replace it. Now, it may have been on it's way out before I did the brake job, but a couple of mechanic friends told me that letting the system sit dry may have ruined the seals in the master.
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
-Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless
Super VXer
Yah, I'll get an early start & try to get'r done in a day. Should be doable (was able to do same on a Samurai once).Originally Posted by MSHardeman
Tom, quick word of advice when doing your brake job this summer; do NOT leave the system, or at least the master cylinder, open for very long. I did the same as you a few years ago (replaced rotors, pads, painted calipers and installed stainless steel lines) and I left the system open for a few days while I got all of that done. Once I put everything back together the braking seemed even worse than it did before. The VX would stop OK, but if I kept my foot on the pedal it would eventually go to the floor. Finally figured out that some of the seals in the master cylinder were bad and had to replace it. Now, it may have been on it's way out before I did the brake job, but a couple of mechanic friends told me that letting the system sit dry may have ruined the seals in the master.
Super VXer
Just make sure to keep the master cylinder filled. I just did hoses, calipers, pads and rotors on my DD. I put pads rotors and new calipers on and got them tight then removed the hose from the old caliper, kept the time the system was open very short.
When you bleed the brakes remember the VX is a little different. If your ABS is working you need to pull the fuse for the ABS then make sure the VX is running through the entire bleeding process. Take a look at my write up on replacing the ABS module for tips on bleeding the system.
You may also benefit from allowing each new caliper to gravity bleed for 30 min or so before pressure bleeding. just keep an eye on it to make sure you dont run the master cylinder dry.
"Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"
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