Lower Ball Joints Removal

[eternal21]

Similar, and a lot cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221431301225

[TexasProton]

So after spending the last three weekends whacking my balls...Ball Joints, that is...I remembered someone said to use a bigger hammer!! So, I took the biggest hammer I got, my shlong (hey, that's what I call it!!), and whacked the ball joint twice, and off it came. Seriously it took about a 10 pound hammer and two purposed whacks...Thanks for the tip.

Note:
I took off the four bolts holding the Ball joint to the lower control arm, then I put a jack under the ball joint bolt and jacked it up enough to put some pressure on the knuckle, then I walked the side of the knuckle with the BF hammer!

Now, how do you put the new suckers on? Do I need to dismantle the CV shaft in order to get the outer CV cup out of the way? had the dang knuckle been a 1/2" longer, this would not be a conversation topic!!

Is it possible to remove the entire CV shaft including the CV DOJ case as one assembly? I actually started this whole project so I could install new CV boots, then it turned into a lower Ball joints nightmare. I am thinking it will be much easier to install the CV Boot's bands if I can get the whole CV axle out!!

[VX crazy]

Ollie I emailed you, let it off the jack and onto floor jack so it's not binding.....we can come help you tomorrow since are off work this week for what would have been Moab......

[Otwobme]

IF YOUR GOING TO HIT IT LIKE A GIRL HIT IT LIKE A BIG GIRL...lol
they can be a Bit!@... i would say walk away for a while and come back to after putting some U force from BG on it.

[eternal21]

I went ahead and popped for the Honda part I mentioned previously. The opening is 28mm, and it fit the upper and lower ball joints with room to spare. I just released the passenger's side upper and lower. Took me 30 secs to pop the top one, and about the same for the lower. No banging, no cursing, no frustration, no noise, except for the joints popping loose.

I'll take a vid of the driver's side when I do it later.

[Hades]

I finally found the source of my clunking, was hoping it was the tie rod but sure enough the lower ball joint boots are split open and oozing. I'm a little confused by some of the searches, though. Do you need to completely dismantle the hub to disconnect the c/v's, or is it possible to d/c the c/vs and then slam the joint out without removing the hubs? Don't want to spend too much money on tools if I may be selling in a few months.

[Triathlete]

Yes the hubs must come off to remove the cv's. There is a retaining clip on the end that needs to come off to make removal possible. The hubs are very simple to remove and no special tools are needed. It's a 15 minute job max.

[rowhard]

There is a retaining clip on the end that needs to come off to make removal possible.

usually there is a shim under the snap ring. The only tool needed is snap ring pliers to do it.

[eternal21]

usually there is a shim under the snap ring. The only tool needed is snap ring pliers to do it.

I used a set of needle nose. A bit more time consuming, but doable.

[Hades]

I think I need to get the other side up in the air, but is it because the front is an open diff that when I try to remove the hub cover nuts all it does is rotate? I broke one allen wrench already (was a multi tool with plastic housing) with somebody holding the brakes while i rotated the tool. Still no budge, bought a normal allen head wrench gonna try that next.

[Triathlete]

Loosen them before jacking up the wheels. Then finish removing them once in the air.

[Hades]

I will have to try again tomorrow. I didn't mean the lug nuts I meant the hub cover Allen bolts, can't access those with the wheels on. I did get them off with a normal Allen wrench and a breaker bar. They were on so tight that the hub cover is actually deflecting upwards between the bolts. So I got that cover off and the snap ring underneath, lots of red grease inside. Also got the brake caliper off. Then I ran into a snag; I was assuming with the snap ring off I could just pull the shaft out from there, but it wouldn't budge no matter the angle. Am I misinterpreting a step somewhere?

I put it all back together and will try again tomorrow, hopefully with some advice. Also should I have any extra grease or sealant on hand when I'm buttoning it back up?

I should have took a picture, but it seemed that a wire has been rubbing (ABS sensor? it wasn't going to the brakes but more like to the driveshaft if memory serves me right) has been rubbing. It was actually worn to some threading by what looks like the c/v joint. Is this pretty common?

EDIT
Looks like in this thread I could have gotten it out with just the little bit of room caused by pushing the shaft in, grr. I also didn't notice any shim behind the clip...

[Triathlete]

Did you remove the retainer ting from the rear? After removing the boot there is a ring in a slot on the bearing race. You can find it by feeling with your finger. Use a small screwdriver to pop it out.

[Hades]

No I thought I would be able to get the shaft out without messing with the boots. I'll try the planet trick first then actually removing the boot. Hoping its possible without taking apart the balls and race.

[Hades]

Got it off finally with some swings to the knuckle and some force to push the shaft out a smidge. But because the world hates me two of the brand new nuts (isn't Moog supposed to be top quality?) that came with the new ball joint started to round as I was torqueing them to spec...