CV Axle replacement

[MSHardeman]

Bart, I bought both of the complete SurTrack axle from the third member out to the wheel ( http://surtrack.mycarparts.net/produ..._id=3024658431 ). It came completely assembled with both inner and outer CV joints complete with boots installed. I am in the middle of an internal debate now, since my "green cup" is OK. Debate is whether to continue forward with replacing the complete axle from the third member out or to disassemble the brand new complete axle and just install the half shafts in my existing green cup. That way I wouldn't need to get into the axle housing at all and wouldn't have to drop the whole axle assembly.

I have a feeling that I'm just going to continue on and install the complete SurTrack axle as that was my plan in the first place. I currently have the driver side half shaft out, and the green cup exposed. The next step is to disassemble the passenger side and then drop the axle housing so I can get the axles out of it. I'm just hoping that I get all of the oil seals installed correctly and don't end up creating a leak where there isn't one now.

Thanks for the heads up on the needle bearing in the knuckle. I'll just give it a good cleaning and then re-pack it with grease before re-installing everything. Hopefully I can get everything put back together without having to remove the knuckles.

I'm sure I'll be asking more questions as I go along.

[nfpgasmask]

Ahhh, I see. So ok, yeah, in order to install that whole unit, you will indeed have to drop the whole front axle. Or at least I think it would be pretty damn difficult to do it without taking the axle housing out completely.

This is where the frustration begins, because I had one serious hell of a time getting the axle to drop clear without removal of the steering centerlink. I am in the same boat right at this moment with my Trooper, switching to 4.77s and in the process of doing so, I have to remove the front axle entirely. For the life of me, I cannot get the axle to drop all the way, because the steering link is in the way. So I am now faced with removing it, which is a serious pain and will likely force you to replace it as well. I've never been able to get one off without mangling the boots.

The pisser in your case is that if you had two extra CV band clamps, you could just leave your axle up and do it from the inner CV out.

Good luck,

Bart

[VXorado]

Mark,

If you end up dropping the diff to replace the complete axle assembly (half shaft+jack shaft), make sure to get new seals for the axle shafts. When I replaced mine (the third time ), I reused the old seals and got a leak. It was awful having to drop the entire diff again to replace one seal. Honestly, I wouldn't drop the diff if the green cups are in good shape. The OEM green cups will be stronger than these aftermarket sets. In this case, just make sure the new CVs are the same size as the OEM CVs.