Fiberglas Rear Skid Plate

[Ldub]

Keeping in mind that I'm a neanderthal that has no qualms about drilling/cutting/screwing into cladding...this might help...

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ard+skid+plate

[rowhard]

pretty much what LDub said. If your going to rattle can it, I might have the color code still. Haven't checked the laws lately, but you might be able to get it mixed and shoved into a rattle can at a autopaint store. Warm the can in some hot water first, helps it flow better. Long strokes, edge to edge and Bob's your uncle. Jo can explain As far as attaching, just use longer fasteners that secure the cladding. You should be able to get the fake fasteners at Fastenal, just cut and grind them down and glue them in. Not sure if Jo's plates have the holes drilled or marked but if not just take your time and eyeball it.

[JoFotoz]

Thanks for your input John...

Not sure if Jo's plates have the holes drilled or marked but if not just take your time and eyeball it.

The plates I produced are not drilled.
People seems to fit in various ways, so left options open.

Jo

[VX KAT]

Here's a thread I did on fitting mine:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...kid+plate+50mm

Had to use a C-clamp vice grips to pull the plate into alignment with the cladding holes. I used 45mm and 50mm bolts, but it turned out I could have gone with shorter ones after the vice grips pulled it into closer alignment.
I used neoprene washers as protector between metal washer and painted plate. (See last pic)


The links in that thread are dead, so here's the pics.

First pic is to show the detail on the fake studs.



FRONT PLATE:
















Here's the REAR SKID fitted:








Back of rear plate:

[Mile High VX]

Thanks for all of the help...

Sue, are the top fasteners just for looks or did you put holes in the cladding?

I looked at the photos of you handing off your VX to the new owner and it did not appear that there were any holes in the cladding where the top fasteners would be.

Thanks again.

[VX KAT]

Thanks for all of the help...

Sue, are the top fasteners just for looks or did you put holes in the cladding?

I looked at the photos of you handing off your VX to the new owner and it did not appear that there were any holes in the cladding where the top fasteners would be.

Thanks again.

Yeah, I said in post above the entire top row of studs are fakes. In last photo, (of the back of the rear skid), you can see the fake studs. No holes in cladding were made at all. And when I installed the plates, I used 1/2 neoprene washers glued on to cover the cut off end of fake screws so they couldn't scratch the cladding.


Also, I don't know why there were 4 holes drilled in the front plate where the license plate delete installs, I only used 2 of those 4, and bought a a bolt witha washer neck and glued it in just to cover the hole.
Can kind of see it in these pics:

[JoFotoz]

Huge Thanks SUE!!

Great pics and write ups...

.. much appreciated

Jo

[Mile High VX]

If your going to rattle can it, I might have the color code still.

I ordered a premixed rattle can from a place online that does touch up colors.

Your front plate is still holding up great, but I needed to refinish it due to the CO road rocks...

One can should be enough to do both and thanks for all the advice.

[rowhard]

[quote=Mile High VX;292859 Your front plate is still holding up great, but I needed to refinish it due to the CO road rocks...
[/quote]

pick up a tube of glazing putty, (fine body filler) to fill in the CO road rocks if they are small chips out of the finish. Apply thinly with a a plastic spreader, sand with some 320 dry, prime then wet sand with 4 or 600 grit and it will be perfect for painting.