Ya know... if the swap ors well, some members might be willing to commission engine swaps... might be great on the side... just a thought.. Good luck and welcome!
I like the MEATS, what the size on those?
They are Mickey Thompson 16x8 Polished fake bedlocks. Tires are 13/36/16 Super Swamper TSL (old school)
Don't know why the pics uplaoded sideways?
Some info on my engine if anyone is interested. The previous/original owner ran the engine out of oil. It had 1000 miles on the oil change when it happened. The intermediate gears that drive the cam gears seized in the heads locking all 4 cams, which in turn striped the teeth off the timing belt at the crank. The crank turned over freely. After disassembling the engine I found where all the oil went. the oil rings on all 6 pistons were completely constricted to the same size as the pistons. So oil was going past the oil rings to the compression rings (which were fine) & just burning it, in all 6 cyls. The cyl. walls were coated with oil like a protective film. The cyls. are in perfect condition with no ridge built up at all. I took a couple rod caps off & the rod bearings looked brand new with literally no wear. Until I got to the #1 rod bearing, it had VERY slight signs of oiling problems. Then with the main bearings it was the same. The #1 main bearing was pretty worn, if it had run much longer it would have ruined the crank & possibly the block. I have the crank at the machine shop now determining if it can just be polished (I think it can) or if it will need to be reground. As soon as I know for sure I'll be ordering a re-ring kit & a new oil pump. I'm amazed that really the only thing that got hurt badly were the heads! There was basically NO oil in this engine when I went to drain the pan. Maybe 4ozs., if that.
My theory on why the oil rings did this is carbon buildup. The ring lands are carboned badly. Why, I really don't know. The engine looks like it had regular maint. with no sludge. I've see a post or 2 about drilling more holes in the lands of the pistons. Don't know if that would actually stop this from happening or not. I might try it, but chances are I would never know if it cures the issue or not. This engine had just under 127K on it when it met it's demise.
Well it took me a long time to be able to actually work on MY OWN VEHICLE! but I actually got it together & drove about 25miles to work. The alignment & the bias ply tires being flat spotted kept me off the freeway. I'm going into work tomorrow to get the alignment straightened around then hopefully be able to drive it on the freeway to get the 8 month flat spots out of the tires. I had the detail department where I work, buff it & detail it. It is very impressive how nice it came out!
96 Eclipse Spyder GSX (already turbo, AWD swap)
93 Eagle Summit AWD (4G63 turbo swaps)
That's quite a lift! Looks good. Well done. Make sure your cv boots are able to hold the lube in with a lift like that.
Very nice...looks alot like SuperStang460 before his wreck in the snow...
Looking good my friend! What kit did you go with for the suspension lift? Did you go with HD T-bars, or just the stock? I've got a 4 inch Calmini lift on mine with 33'' Nittos. I didn't buy or install the lift, it came with the truck when I bought it. Others on the site have said it is more cost effective to go with Old Man Emu hardware and Rancho 9000 shocks. Just wondering which way you went with it.
Looks great with the tires... you're brave for running bias plys on a DD!![]()
VXorado, It's more of a toy than a DD. But I did drive daily drivers for years with swampers. When your lifted with big tires & a little V6 it's not like your driving a sportscar.
mattferguson14, The lift is pieced together, The rear is OME 919 springs, front is the stock torsion bars cranked. (diff drop brackets next). Used a body lift for a trooper (or some of it anyway). & wheel well trimming. Has stock shocks right now. Plan on changing those soon.