Just saw this thread. I'll chime in that I swear by Rotella-T full synthetic. I use it on my Mitsubishi GTO & I'll be using it on my Vehicross. If you have oil burning problems that seem to get WORSE with Rotella, that's probably because your engine needs major work. Rotella has SUBSTANTIALLY more cleaning agents than conventional "gasoline engine" oil--because of federal regulations that limit the detergents in "gasoline engine" oil. In reality, a 10w30 is a 10w30 regardless of what engine it goes in. Those higher amounts of detergents in Rotella-T full synthetic are going to clean out a lot more gunk between changes than other non-diesel oils.

Part of the problem is that on older engines, there is already more gunk inside the engine, and the detergents may be entirely used up in the first 1,000 miles of an oil change interval--meaning that for the remainder of the time, you're just adding MORE gunk back into the engine. This is even worse when you use conventional oil instead of FULL synthetic...because full synthetic is much more homogenous & much less prone to sheering forces, etc (and complex engine physics that would probably bore you to tears). I change my oil usually every 3-5,000 miles with Rotella-T and I never seem to have any problems as a result. Same reason why I completely flush my transmission fluid every 15,000 miles--also with full synthetic. (My trans fluid looks nearly new when it's being purged).

Not even the best oil filter in the world will save you from the negative effects of using a crappy motor oil.

/ my $.02