My Axiom engine install 6VE1 (late)

[Espritmike]

Leon R, I suspect cutting down the crank caused the failure also. I had it happen when my brother-in-law ran his 3.0L Ford Ranger out of oil and seized the crank (only had 29k on the truck!). We rebuilt it and 200 miles later the crank broke in half. Never made that mistake again. Time will tell, but to me the late '02-'03 Axiom motor seems to be the ticket. Now If you tear down an early motor and change the pistons (more drain back holes as documented in a few posts here), that too could solve the problem but I'm not sure how much the PCV system makes a difference.
Here is the thing, I could have installed a reman motor, probably done right, but, it would have been probably $3200 just for the longblock. As it is I got lucky and got this motor for $1200 plus shipping ($165). Most of the ones I see are $1700-$2100 used. On top of that I put another $900 or so in misc. parts (gaskets, starter, alternator, torque converter etc.) PLUS about $600 which is what I paid my tech to install it (we were slow the last few weeks so I could justify it). That is $2900. I paid $9300 for the VX in June and didn't really want to drop another $4900 into it, BUT I do still have my standards and wanted it done right. If someone just walked throught my door and I did the exact job, it would have left at over $5000! Of course I toyed with putting the 5.3 E-rod or equivalent into it but that would be about $15-20K and I have waaaay to many things going on in my live to justify that kind of project.

[Marlin]

I would love to drop an Isuzu diesel in the truck,I would be just fine with the loss in power for the durability/versatility/dependability of the diesel. But mine runs like a champ, had the same ticking noise from the passenger fender for 5 years, partially a crack in exhaust manifold, partially valve tap. No other issues, at about 150K miles now.

[Espritmike]

I would love to drop an Isuzu diesel in the truck,I would be just fine with the loss in power for the durability/versatility/dependability of the diesel. But mine runs like a champ, had the same ticking noise from the passenger fender for 5 years, partially a crack in exhaust manifold, partially valve tap. No other issues, at about 150K miles now.

The valves are adjustable on these. Although a pain

[Marlin]

Yep, I watched the tech video for how to shim them, I know myself well enough that I do not have the patience for that kind of detail work. I also realized that it doesn't matter, and just about every 3.5L trooper I have ever heard has the same tap, so no worries here.

[Y33TREKker]

I've often wondered if a competent motorcycle tech could do the valve adjustment if he/she also had access to the factory Isuzu VX valve adjustment tech videos to watch before starting the job.

I say that thinking back of the shim-in-bucket valvetrain system that was used in all of the large-bore inline-four Kawasaki street bikes I've owned over the years. 900 Eliminator, 1000cc Ninja ZX-10, and 1100cc Ninja ZX-11D.

[Espritmike]

They use them in v-6 Toyotas and some BMW motors. I had an E34 M5 that was set up like that. I had to pull the cam boxes so I measured the valves,pulled the boxes (including the camshafts) and re adjusted. Way easier than trying to compress the valves with the special tool.

[Leon R]

Of course I toyed with putting the 5.3 E-rod or equivalent into it but that would be about $15-20K and I have waaaay to many things going on in my live to justify that kind of project.

I keep going back and forth between adding a mid-mounted turbo to 3.5 or going with LS4 engine. LS4 is very cheap (as little as $900 for engine with engine harness!), but you need to address starter issue (there isn’t a provision to mount one on the engine). Ether way, I also have too many projects going on right now, so I am glad I have time. As long as my 170k miles engine doesn’t come down with rod knock…