Interesting oil consumption issue

[tom4bren]

yah, something like this should work:

http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9291218/00031/

I wasn't sure if it would be messy though (dripping oil once the filter is saturated).

It's only illegal for the manufacturer to install. You can do it on your own vehicle.

[evillecutter]

I wasn't sure if it would be messy though (dripping oil once the filter is saturated).

was wondering the same thing - thanks again tom

[blacksambo]

Good report. Keep'em coming.

[tom4bren]

Interesting read:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_it_true...ced_frequently

[VXorado]

Nice idea Tom, glad to hear about some improvement so far...

I think you should couple this idea with an oil change. Jerry Lemond on the Planet (Isuzu Tech), recommends Rotella 5-40 which is an diesel oil with more cleaning additives. I read another post where he recommended a couple very quick oil changes followed by a permanent switch to Rotella. The idea being, to clean the engine build up as much as possible for quicker results. My VX seems to be burning more and more oil so I plan to make the switch soon.

Here's a quote from him...

BC IS RIGHT , RIGHT ABOUT THE RINGS AND THE OIL DRAIN BACK HOLES IN THE PISTONS, STARTING IN98 ON THE 3.2 AND THE 3.5 ENG ISUZU WAS TRYING TO GE TTHE SLIDIGN RESISTENCE ON THE PISTON DOWN ON THE NEWER ENGS LESS RESISTENCE ,MEANS MORE POWER AND BETTER MILEAGE SO THEY MADE THE PISTONS WITH THE RINGS SPECIFICALLY THE OIL CONTROL RINGS SMALLER IN THICKNESS AND ON THE PISTONS RING LAND THEY ONLY DRILLED TWO DRAIN BACK HOLES IN EACH SIDE OF THE PISTON, IN THE LAND ITSELF, FOR THE GUYS WHO MAY NOT COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND WHY WE EVEN NEED HOLES IN THE LANDS AT ALL, PIX THIS EVERYTIME THE PISTON IS AT TDC IT IS EITHER BEING PUSHED DOWN BY THE FIRING OF THE CYL ON IT S POWER STROKE OR IT IS BEING PULLED DOWN BY THE CRANKSHAFT ON THE INTAKE STROKE , SO WHERE DOES THE OIL COME FROM ON THE CRANKSHAFT ROD JOURNAL THERE IS A HOLE DRILLED TO ALINE WITH A HOLE THAT IS DRILLED ON AN ANGLE IN THE CONNECTING ROD ITSELF THAT GOES ALLTHE WAY THRU AND EXITS RIGHT ABOUT ONE OF THE ROD BOLTS, , NOW THIS HOLE IS DRILLED AND ALINGHED IN SUCH A WAY THAT IT CAN ONLY SQUIRT OIL ON THE CYL WALLS AS THE PISTON IS COMING DOWN FROM TDC AND ONLY ON THE MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF THE PISTON, WHICH IS THE INTAKE SIDE OF THE PISTON THAT IS WHY YOU HAVE THE LISTONS WITH FRT MARKS ON THEM AMONG A COUPLE OF OTHER REASONS . NOW WITH ALL THIS OIL ON THE CYL WALLS AS THE PISTON DECENDS THE RINGS JOB IS THE SCRAPE THE OIL FROM THE CYL WALLS EXCEPT FOR A MINUT AMOUNT THAT IS USED TO LUBRICATE THE PISTON TO CYL SO THE PISTON DOESNT STICK TO THE WALL ALUMNIUM AND CAST IRON DO NOT GET ALONG VERY LONG SCRAPING AGAINST EACH OTHER , SO NOW GO PAST A COUPLE OF OIL CHANGE AT THE OIL CHANGE PLACE OR GET A LOW GRADE OF OIL THREE OR FOUR TIMES AND IN ABOUT 50 000 MILES THE CARBON AN D GUNK WILL START TO BUILD UP IN AND AROUND THE RINGS AND THE RINGS EITHER STICK OR COMPLETELY COLLASPE AND CAINT CONTROL THE OIL SO IT JUST SLIDES RIGHT PAST THE RINGS INTO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER , ANY GOOD GRADE OF OIL CAN PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING, BUT ONCE THE CARBON HAS BUILT UP IT CONTINUALLY GETS HARDER AND HARDER UNTILL THE RINGS CAN NO LONGER WORK, ,WHAT IS THE CURE GO TO A HI DETERGENT OIL OR MAYBE AN ENG FLUSH WHICH USUALLY DOESNT WORK, AND KEEP DRIVING UNTILL THE CARBON STARTS TO BREAK DOWN, AND LET THE RINGS START DOING THEIR JOB AGAIN, THIS CANNOT AND WILL NOT HAPPEN OVERNITE OR IN ONE OR TWO OIL CHANGES IF TI DOES YOU DONT HAVE CARBON BUILD UP YOU HAVE A SLUDGED UP ENG, NOW THE ENG FLUSH WILL DISSOLVE THIS CRAP, BUT CARBON TAKES A WHILE . THE ROTELLA OIL CANNOT CREATE MIRACLES , BUT IT DOES CLEAN THE ENG, BUT IT COULD TAKE 8-10 OIL CHANGES , AND THAT IS QUITE A BIT OF DRIVING, NOW WHAT ISUZ DID ON THE LATER ENGS PRODUCED STARTING WITH THE 2002 ENGS WAS DRILL 4 HOL;ES FOR DRAIN BACK IN THE PISTONS , SO FAR THEY SEEM TO DOING THE JOB, THE PROBLEM ISUZU RAN INTO IN THE DESIGN OF THE NEW ENG WAS THEY WANTED TO KEEP THE PROFILE OF THE ENG SMALL YET MAKE IT LARGER INTERNAL, SET THE LATE 3.2 SIDE BY SID E WITH THE LATE 3.2 3.5 AND THERE IS A LOT OF DIFF IN THE HEIGTH OF THE ENGS, THEN WITH THE STROKER CRANK OF THE 3.5 THE PISTONS HAD TO BE MADE SHORT BY QUITE A BIT TO FIT IN THE SAME DECK HEIGHT THAT THE PISTON PIN HADE TO BE MOVED WAY UP IN THE PISTON AND THE SKIRT WAS SHORTENED BY ALLMOST A 1/2 INCH, TO KEEP FROM HITTING THE CRANKSHAFT , THE OLDER ENGS HAD 4 MM WIDE OIL CONTEL RINGS AND ALLSO HAD 4 VERY LARGE DRAIN BACK HOLES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE PISTON, THE LATE ENGS HAD A 3MM WIDE RING THATS NOT EVEN AN EIGHT OF AN INCH,

HOPE THIS CLEARED IT UP A BIT, BUT DONT THINK THERE ARENT OTHER VEH OUT THERE THAT HAVE GONE THRU THIS, THERE IS ONE BRAND OUT THERE THAT BUILDS SO MUCH BETTER TRUCKS THAN THE RODEOS AND TROOPERS THAT THEY EVEN DESIGNED THE ENGINES AND THE TRUCKS BEFORE ISUZU EVEN SOLD THEM THEIRS , HMMM WONDER WHO THAT COULD BE TROOPERS 92 ACURAS SLX 95 RODEOS 93 PASSPORT 94-95 WONDER IF THEY WOULD REMEMBER ALL THE CIVICS IN THE EARLY TO LATE SEVENTYS WITH THE BROKEN EXHAUST MANI, BURNED VLV, BLOWN HEAD GASKETS, SEIZED CAMSHAFTS , LEAKING ENG CORE PLUGS , I BETTER NOT MENTION THE NAME OF THOSE THEY MIGHT GET MAD AT ME HEHE JERRY

[tom4bren]

Thanks for the tip rado

I was going to go with Mobile 1 blend for high mileage engines but may look into that instead. Is the Rotella synthetic or dead dinosaur?

Never mind - found it:

http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/t6.html

The write up sounds HOKEY!!!

"continuously adapts to your driving conditions" - Really??? How does oil adapt to your driving conditions?

"UNSURPASSED SHEAR STABILITY" - Based on what? How do you even measure that?

"selected low-viscosity synthetic base oils further energizes the oil's protective capability that promotes fuel-economy performance with no compromise in durability" - energized oil ... gotta get me some right away to put in my perpetual motion machine.

"34% better wear performance" & "70% better oxidation resistance" - 72.3% of all statistics are made up on the spot.

"special molecules that resist compression to keep moving parts separated" - & it's grape flavored too!!!




Sorry, I don't mean to Poo-Poo a good product just because of lame advertising ... just a touchy subject with me.

If Jerry has had good luck with it, then at least some of the claims must be true.

[VXorado]

Sounds too good to be true. They also add some snake oil into the "proprietary blend" for an extra 50 HP!!!

I use Mobile 1 Syn Extended Miles 5W-30 thinking the extra cleaning additives would help. My engine has only increased oil consumption in the last year --- since the switch from regular Mobile 1 syn 5W-30.

I've heard mixed reviews on the planet and I believe that's why Jerry made the post about it taking a while. Worth a shot... maybe a combo PCV fix + engine cleaning=

[tom4bren]

Oil consumption is still down & I'm still not accumulating any in the catch can. I assume that with the long hose runs with my set up (slightly uphill), the oil is condensing on the inside of the feed tube & dripping back into the valve cover. That tube is opaque so I can't tell.

I'm getting some discoloration in the indicator tube on the catch can & on the clear exit tube from the catch can (to the combustion chamber) so obviously there's gasses flowing.

The bottom line though is that my oil consumption is still low so I'm on the right track. Mebbe a switch to Rotella will bring it down more.

This mod will definitely be copied over to both VX's in the near future.

[evillecutter]

thanks for the updates tom

in all of the oil consumption issue info that i have read on this site and others the oil should be recirculated - if it is not put back into the system somehow then it doesnt really fix the problem and you would still lose oil

im seriously considering this canister option

notice any changes like the oil getting dirty faster or is it staying clean?

[tom4bren]

I've not yet changed the oil on the Amigo since I've owned it. That question will be answered sometime in the nebulous future.

BTW, the PCV set up doesn't recirculate the oil, it burns it. Basically the canister just replaces the PCV itself so the 'closed loop system' remains unchanged except for these 2 benefits:

1. PCV is subject to fouling fairly easily since the internal plumbing is pretty small & the canister doesn't.

2. less pressure is allowed to build up inside the valve cover since you don't need to overcome (open) the valve inside the PCV.

Mebbe the trick is the secret I accidentally found. Long tubes running to the canister on a slightly uphill slope. That way, the oil in the gasses can condense & run back into the valve cover.

[HeckaTrebeka]

Just to let you know:

I owned a 1993 amigo 4 cyl engine - used oil
I owned a 1997 rodeo 3.2L engine - used oil

The rodeo was in an accident before I bought it and had some front end damage, but I don't think that was the reason for the oil consumption.

I'm guessing that Isuzu motors are reliable IF you do ALL the required maintenance right on schedule. Otherwise, you'll be reaping the consequences of your or previous owners' negligence.

[JHarris1385]

I came across that wiki page you posted. Do our engines really mist the oil making it easier to burn off? If so the canister should work right!

In addition, my mechanic said I needed to run a detergent oil for a while and said the best and cheapest thing to do is run transmission oil in it to clean it out. Just a quart to start.

I'm burning extreme now, almost a quart every 500 miles.

[tom4bren]

I used about a quart of oil on my 700 mile round trip to Tennessee last week. I could wish for better but I rekin it's nothing to complain about.