Naked...

[Leon R]

... And ready for paint:







It took me a week to get it stripped and ready for paint (same factory Proton). I now dispise double sided tape! But unfortunately, I will have to use it when I put panels back in the car. What is a good source for the thicker tape used on these panels?

[Hcloud13]

[QUOTE=Leon R;282875Naked... [/QUOTE]

Oh...you mean the VX...got me all excited for nothin lol.

[tom4bren]

I'd check 3M on line to see what they offer.

Some of the paint shops in your area might be able to offer suggestions to you.

[JoFotoz]

I dont think the tape is required...

....didnt use it when I put all my cladding back.

Survived 1800 fast freeway miles...
...and a week of Moab...and its all good.


Jo

[Leon R]

Interesting point and very in-sink with my loathing of that terrible substance!

[JoFotoz]

Yea...its a COMPLETE PAIN!!

Interesting point and very in-sink with my loathing of that terrible substance!

Best guess is that the tape was used in the original assembly line in order to "stick"
the cladding on in one motion...then move it along for actual fastening.

Jo

[tysamigo]

I did the research and found the exact 3M tape that Isuzu calls for and bought some... however I'm thinking twice now about using it especially due to the added weight of LineX...

Either way I decided to replace ALL the grommets (for both screws and plastic push pins) and plastic pins that are in the cladding so that everything is strong. The grommets come in 2 sizes from Isuzu. There is a "smaller" grommet (which is not as deep) and a larger grommet (which is deep). The smaller grommets were used for the driver and passenger door which in return used the smaller size cladding screw. All other grommets meant for cladding screws were the deeper kind which in return accepts the longer cladding screw.

When I ordered from Merlin I asked him if I can get the longer screw. I changed the grommets on the doors from the smaller size to the larger size, so now all grommets that are meant for screws... are the larger size (i think by a couple mm longer) to have a bit more strength. The holes in the truck are all the same size (4mm hole), but Isuzu just put different size grommets to accept different size screws. I basically just changed it all to accept the longer screws.

To save money and have an easy source for the grommets, I sent a sample pack of hard to find nick-nacks to the actual company of Auveco (www.auveco.com) (here in KY). Pam from there sent me back identical versions that they carry. The grommets even have the rubber seal so that it doesn't rub the paint. I also got the fasteners for the front of the door sill, engine hood cover, interior panels, tirewell area (the plastic screw things), and other nick nack stuff.

I'll get all those numbers for you if you are going to replace any of that stuff. The plastic push pins (officially called a fastener) I could not find a replacement for so far and I haven't sent it to Auveco. I just ended up ordering from Merlin. But I know that one exists from Auevco, just takes time to measure everything in metric and then cross reference with a thick paper book (oddly, it has things their site doesnt have and she sent me 2 copies of the catalog).

I'll chime back in with part numbers for all that stuff including tape if you need it...

[tom4bren]

Good stuff Ty.

I've also got about 10 cladding screws on hand if anyone needs them.

[WormGod]

I would suggest the tape reinstalled during assembly, especially if you drive a lot of highway. It is originally there for ease of rattling from vibration. It acts as an insulator, not so much a safety or mechanical issue. (I am an old body work/paint guy )

I had my cladding off long ago and installed without it adhesive tape. Lots of vibration at highway speed. I eventually removed the cladding again and put some back on and mo'betta.

Just a forewarning.... cheers!

[Leon R]

Believe it or not, I didn't damage or lose a single "push in" fastener!

However, I destroyed pretty much ALL plastic screw-in "rivet" fasteners (as used on the bottom of the rocker panel trim). I am not a stranger those fasteners, but they would ether strip right a way, or turn without actually coming out... Since you can't get behind the "rivet" and squeeze it, I ended up drilling them out . So I ether need to get new from Merlin or find alternatives from some other source.

What have you guys used in place of original rivets in the wheel archers?

[tysamigo]

Believe it or not, I didn't damage or lose a single "push in" fastener!

However, I destroyed pretty much ALL plastic screw-in "rivet" fasteners (as used on the bottom of the rocker panel trim). I am not a stranger those fasteners, but they would ether strip right a way, or turn without actually coming out... Since you can't get behind the "rivet" and squeeze it, I ended up drilling them out . So I ether need to get new from Merlin or find alternatives from some other source.

What have you guys used in place of original rivets in the wheel archers?

As I was saying below... I have the part numbers at home for what you need. I'll post later on when I'm off work.

Regarding the rivets...I don't think they are necessary. I brought this discuss up recently...

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=24325


Since then I have found a better solution. There is a small black fastener that is only found in a handful of places on the whole truck. One is just about the driver's head area. The interior side panel, up at the very top, and to the very front there is a black cap that covers a hole. Inside the hole is a small black fastener. This fits the rivet holes perfectly.

When you fasten the cladding pieces in the tire well areas, I also replaced the body bolts AND the threaded pieces they go into (don't know what they are called).

Now that all grommets, body bolts, fasteners, etc. are new I tried replacing all cladding pieces (without using tape obviously) and everything is tight and perfect. I don't think the rivets are needed and instead I will just use these black fasteners. I'll post that part number later as well.

By the way, I have about a dozen of the rivets that I got from Merlin for sale if anyone is interested.

[tysamigo]

The VX primarily uses 2 types of 3M tape:

For cladding pieces
3M Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape, 7/8" wide and .045" thick
3M Part# 06383

For Windshield cowling, for the weatherstripping that goes down each side of the VX on top of the roof (assuming the original tape is bad) and for other misc areas where the smaller tape was used
3M Nameplate Repair Tape, .23" wide and .30" thick
3M Part# 06385

When using either of these tapes, you will also need to use this product PRIOR to putting down the tape
3M Automotive Adhesion Promoter
Specially used for plastic trim attachments with 3M Acrylic Foam Tapes
3M Part# 06396
--------------------------

Grommets
2 style grommets are used on the whole VX (except door sill area), however I've replaced all grommets with just one style (the deeper of the 2)

Larger (deeper) of the 2 grommets
Nylon Screw Grommet
Stem Length 20mm
Used everywhere that a cladding screw is needed (except for the 2 dummie screws in the front, and the screws for driver/passenger door)
Auveco Part# 21324

Smaller of the 2 grommets
Nylong Screw Grommet
Used to attach door cladding pieces to body, but these can be replaced with the larger grommets. Also used in 1 place (where it really does need to be used) on the back door, just about the lock cylinder.
Auveco Part# 20303
--------------------------

Retainers

Used for tire well areas
Nylon Push-Type Retainer
Fits into 7mm hole
Auveco Part# 14727

Used a few times in tire well area, used x1 per each door sill
Nylon Push-Type Retainer
Fits into 8mm hole
Head Diam 20mm
Auveco Part# 17216

Used to attach rubber seal to bottom of driver/passenger door, used to attach small cladding piece to bottom of door frame area just outside of door sill
Nylon Push-Type Retainer
Fits 8mm hole
Head Diam 18mm
Auveco Part# 17632

Both are used frequently throughout the VX in various places. I just bought a box of each to have.
Retaining Clip
Auveco Part# 0162641
Auveco Part# 0162598

This is what I'm using to plug the RIVET HOLES, Auveco Part# 0162598

In regards to the PUSH PIN CLIPS that are used to attach the cladding pieces AND for the grommets that they clip into... I have not found a replacement source. I ordered these from Merlin.

MISC
Extruded U Nuts
When you are screwing in the body bolts into the VX, this is what you are screwing into. Replace these with new body bolts if you want a smooth transition when removing/replacing screws.
Screw Size 13.5mm Hole Ctr to edge
For M6 screws
Auveco Part# 11628

Body Bolts
M6 - 1.0 x 25MM
purchased from Fastenal

Hood Insulation Retainers
Auveco Part# 0162633

Trim Panel Retainer
Used to attach interior panels. These are LONGER than original to accomadate the Dynomat & DynaLiner that I've installed. If you need longer retainers, use these
Auveco Part# 17102

[Leon R]

I still have aproximately 50% of tape stuck to the clading, I might leave it there as a damper. Plus... it will save me alot of crean-up time!

As you can see, my VX is still rust free and I would like to keep it that way as much as possible. What do you guys think about spaying undercoating before I reinstall the panels? Do not not see a downside to it.