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Thread: Advice on Lower Control Arm damage & repair

  1. #46
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    Measured blue line as Tom suggested. As best we could determine both sides are equal at 20.9cm,
    from the bottom of that fin, to the closest flat edge of the tip of that pointy nipple nut thing.

    I decided to go to another shop to have it evaluated today.
    Same place I got my Cooper tires a few months ago.
    They don't do frame work, so no laser measurement.
    Both manager and mechanic working on it have well-used, well-equipped, off-road heep wranglers, been wheeling many years.

    • Couldn't find any evidence that frame piece moved in any direction.
    • No cracks or defects in welds on red piece so don't think it could have moved at all.
    • It's a cast piece, so it would crack more likely than "bend".
    • Second mechanic came over, agreed with all.

      PLAN:
    • Talked to Merlin, confirmed 96-97 Rodeo LCA is same.
    • So, getting a '97 Rodeo LCA from salvage yard in Phoenix, already on the shelf, $35. (if it's acceptable to me)
    • Ordered new front and rear bushings for that arm, and decided to get a new lower ball joint after he explained it's a wear item --- and while we're in the neighborhood.
    • If the LCA is slightly off, they think they can align it out.
    • If it's significantly off, it appears there's a few options, I'll decide then.




    TBC :-)

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    Last edited by VX KAT : 05/30/2013 at 07:13 PM
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  2. #47
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    Hopefully it's all good news from here on Sue, best of luck!
    Vixer Fixer

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Larson View Post
    I'll stand by my original assertion Tom, that bracket is indeed cast and welding can be problematic to all but the most adept at it...and straightening cast is not an option, once bent, it is prone to failure regardless of being straightened or not. Can-o-worms now open...
    OK. I didn't look to make sure (was just going by the pics). Good to know that somebody around here is more than ready to stand up & correct me on the rare occasions when I'm wrong.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  4. #49
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    Picked up a real nice LCA today at LKQ salvage.

    This was just too easy, you go to a clean building, enter an area with a counter.
    Employees come to you and go gets part you want from their inventory, takes about 3 minutes…you're in/out.

    They don't even have a yard where you can go pull or anything. It's all warehoused and inventoried already.

    AND they were cheaper than any other that came up on search using car-part and mypartshop. $35!

    Most wanted $50, one even wanted $100.

    It was so good, I bought the Passenger side too just in case.

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    just in case.
    That will get expensive if you get carried away. Ask me how I know.

    Bart

  6. #51
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    .

    • Lower control arms seem to be in very good condition.
    • Lower ball joints still attached, both boots ripped.
    • *** ANYBODY WANT THE LOWER BALL JOINTS - FROM A '97 RODEO W/131K MILES - FREE/COVER SHIPPING ***

    DRIVER SIDE - TOP - BEFORE



    DRIVER SIDE - TOP - AFTER







    DRIVER SIDE - BOTTOM - BEFORE




    DRIVER SIDE - BOTTOM - AFTER




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    PASSENGER SIDE - TOP & BOTTOM - (NOT DONE YET)






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    Last edited by VX KAT : 06/01/2013 at 12:06 AM

  7. #52
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    It's a cast piece, so it would crack more likely than "bend".
    Depends on what type of cast iron was used. Ductile cast iron will bend some before breaking. Its what my rear diff cover is made out of and the reason its 3/8" thick and weighs 10 lbs.

    If you got the same measurement on both sides its a very slight bend if any at all and the first mechanic wouldnt have been able to tell just by looking at it. Hopefully you get out of this without too much money. Labor can suck though with new bushings. Cost me $500 labor to have lower bushings done on both sides and was told to never bring another isuzu in for bushings.
    --Dave

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo42 View Post
    Hopefully you get out of this without too much money. Labor can suck though with new bushings. Cost me $500 labor to have lower bushings done on both sides and was told to never bring another isuzu in for bushings.


    They're seriously that hard to install?
    Guess it's a good thing the new bushings were only like $19 and $23 for the driver side.
    The labor on this entire thing is going to be just a killer.

    Giz- You interested in the passenger lower control arm? Bart's got me rattled!

  9. #54
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    Hey Sue, I'll take those ball joints. No rush because they'll just be spares. I've gone through about 5 sets from offroading with the larger tires... and using duralast brand.

    Just PM me the shipping charges when you get around to it... and thanks for being awesome.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXorado View Post
    Hey Sue, I'll take those ball joints. No rush because they'll just be spares. I've gone through about 5 sets from offroading with the larger tires... and using duralast brand.

    Just PM me the shipping charges when you get around to it... and thanks for being awesome.
    Thanks! You got it.
    They're from a '97 Rodeo with 131k miles in case that matters.
    Can you get boots for them?

    I'll likely get the LCA installed next week if the LBJ and bushings get here from Merlin, so they'll be separated then.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Thanks! You got it.
    They're from a '97 Rodeo with 131k miles in case that matters.
    Can you get boots for them?
    You can get new boots for the ball joints and I wish I went that route before throwing my OEM ones away for cheap replacements.

    I'm pretty sure Rodeo ball joints won't work on a VX. They're shorter and will make the wheels do this: \ /

    Thanks anyways for the offer.

    Maybe Dave could use em?

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXorado View Post
    You can get new boots for the ball joints and I wish I went that route before throwing my OEM ones away for cheap replacements.

    I'm pretty sure Rodeo ball joints won't work on a VX. They're shorter and will make the wheels do this: \ /

    Thanks anyways for the offer.

    Maybe Dave could use em?
    Oh dang, that's too bad they won't fit.
    I'll give you my driver side when I get it replaced. Noting wrong with it, just doing it since they'll be in there.
    Can you use just one OEM and one non- OEM?

    I'll make sure Dave knows they're from a Rodeo, and I'll edit my post too.

  13. #58
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    DAVE GIZMO -
    You want the lower ball joints from these?
    From a '97 Rodeo with 131k miles.

    ***** FREE /COVER SHIPPING ******

  14. #59
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    I can confirm that the ball joints aren't compatible. I was shipped those same ball joints last time I did mine and ended up with massive positive toe and camber.

  15. #60
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    I'm not positive but I THINK the ball joints on 98+ are different then 96/97. I know the lower control arms are different. On mine the ball joint slides into the control arm then the bolts go through. On the ones you guys have the ball joints bolt to it. You can see in the drawing there is a plate on the bottom and the ball joint slips into the opening.



    The hard part about the bushings is the rear lower one. It's pressed into the frame instead of the arm so you cant just put it in the shop press. It likes to get stuck too. Being an Arizona truck yours might not be bad. They spent 8 hours pounding, pressing, torching to get mine out.

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