Replacement Axle Assemblies from SurTrack.....

[KRemo]

I replaced both CV axles Saturday that I purchased from suretrack and they fit like a glove. It's amazing how it drives and feels with new CV's. I would recommend these for everyone. Great product. Now it was not a fun job took 7 hours but well worth the work.

[VXD959]

I replaced both CV axles Saturday that I purchased from suretrack and they fit like a glove. It's amazing how it drives and feels with new CV's. I would recommend these for everyone. Great product. Now it was not a fun job took 7 hours but well worth the work.

Great!!! Any tips or lessons learned from the installation? I'm still debating about doing mine myself or just pay $400 for my mechanic to do it.

[KRemo]

Not really if you are not comfortable working on cars I would recommend paying a mechanic. It's a tough job by yourself. you have to drop the front axles because you need to get into it to disconnect and connect the ends from inside. I had a friend that knows a lot about cars a mechanic for 27 years and he said it's one of the hardest axle replacements yet. If the inner axles and boots are not tore up you can just replace the outer axle they are a perfect fit to the green cups. Almost as bad of a job as the thermostat lol

[JoFotoz]

Just to clarify...

If outer axle shafts/CV's are being replaced simply to fix a CV or Boot issue...

...there is no need to drop front axle.

The Surtrak FULL axles assemblies ( as shipped) can be dismantled such that only the
section from the OEM "green Cup' ( silver cup on Surtrack) outward can be used/replaced.
(as per pic of me wrenching at the "stoop")

This will cure CV and torn boot issues without having to drop full axle assembly.
You will still have to re-fit the two boots on each cup.

Dropping the entire front axle for full replacement is indeed a big job..

....replacing CV's and axles from "cup" outwards is much easier and "driveway do-able"


Jo

[KRemo]

Well said

[tom4bren]

Even if you drop the axle to replace the whole shaft can be a 'driveway job'. It's not that difficult ... just dirty & time consuming.

The only real problems I ran into was disconnecting the ball joints. They can be a real BEEEOTCH! Do NOT use a ball joint fork (pickle fork). Go get good pitman arm puller. The fork will trash your ball joint boots which are hard to find.

The only special tools you'll need are the pitman arm puller (for the ball joints, not the pitman arm ... & that's only needed if you are going to drop the axle), snap ring pliers, and possibly a tensioner for the bands on the boots.

Jo, I didn't use the bands that came with the boots. I just used zip ties & they held up just fine.

The best tip that I can give is to plan ahead. Allow plenty of time & try to get a few cell numbers of people who have done the job in case you have any questions. Print out the instructions for the boot install & maybe the one for the diff drop too. Your copy will be completely trashed from grease & stuff when done so a disposable copy is great to have.

[Marlin]

A puller is not needed at all. I have done my CVs several times, fortunately not in the last 2.5 years since I learned how to drive with a front locker, and went back to OEM CVs. If you use a 3lb sledge, just hit the hole that the taper on the ball joint goes into after loosening all the bolts and the ball joint will pop out. I have done this countless times, learned it from JoeD, Peter and JP at Uwharrie. They laughed at me trying to use a pickle fork, ruining a ball joint... He walked over with a hammer, one good whack, and I mean a good whack, and voila, ball joint separated.
You don't have to disconnect the pitman arm to do the job. You can wiggle the axle assembly down by rotating the steering wheel as needed. It isn't that bad of a job, just time consuming. I did this twice, once for the locker install, and then again to do the diff drop and painting of the axle assembly. Took a weekend.