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Thread: MF! VX Kaput

  1. #16
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    1999, Blue (Astral)5 spd VX #1396 ; '01 Proton 0753
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    Take any pics Marlin?
    How do you keep the shavings out of the tank when you drill the new holes? If you can get the original rusted screws out you could always replace them with stainless.

  2. #17
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    Not too worried about shavings in tank, can just put something underneath, or use a magnet to clean it up. Don't want to usr stainless, worried about galvanic corrosion. Can't get original screws out, they are that rusted. just gonna cut them off.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  3. #18
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    Here is a pic with the RTV dry, other than the bolts, you can hardly tell where it is. I have a can of bedliner to go over it to keep it quiet and secure.



    All you need to do this job is an angle grinder or circular saw and the cutoff wheels, some self tapping screws, a few 1"x 1/4" nuts and bolts with lock washers, and about 18" of 1" wide 1/8" thick steel bar, RTV and paint to suit. The bars run fore to aft and are held in place by the 1/4" bolts. Very easy project to do.

  4. #19
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    sounds like the hole in the floor is just the trick. would really be helpful if someone doing it would take a picture and add some reference point and dimensions for where to cut the hole
    Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.

  5. #20
    Member Since
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    Post #4 shows a pretty good shot of where it needs to be. It doesn't have to be very accurate and if you are using a patch from another vehicle you can start small and go bigger as needed.
    There's no 'I' in denial.

  6. #21
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    IMO, this is the way to do it. It is "easy" to drop the tank I guess, but it is no fun especially if there is any fuel in the tank, etc. I am not fond of messing with gas. I am going to preemptively cut an access door in my Trooper for this reason. I am going to make it so 4 bolts hold it in and I can remove the door anytime I need to. A dead fuel pump would be BAD if you were out in the boonies.

    Bart

  7. #22
    Member Since
    Mar 2010
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    1999 Hi Yo! Silver Astral #1275
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    Greetings one and all. Today I had a similar problem and suspect the fuel pump. Was backing into the driveway and my truck just stalled without warning. Before I attempt the hatch cure, I have a question for those who've done this. I had 3/4 of a tank of fuel just prior to the stall (cranks hard still but no ignition), but now the fuel gauge shows dead empty.
    Things I've checked thus far: fuel filter-pulled from the truck and cleared. Flow is perfect.
    Pump fuse is intact and functioning.
    Added about 4 gallons via jerry can, no improvement.

    Earlier in the day, I added another 4 gallons via jerry can from my fuel ration rotation so I could put fresh fuel in two cans, though it was treated with Sta-Bil. Gasoline was just under 4 months old. Sta-Bil wouldn't jack up any sensors, would it? Runs my emergency geni and mower just fine, but neither are EFI.

    I'm on a sleepless binge while my ailing VX sits dead in the driveway, and I'd rather not empty out the savings for a costly repair if the tank hatch works. Any other input, fellas? I'd really appreciate a cut reference as to how far in from the tail gate you guys cut. Going from left to right, it looks like the hatch should be cut between the 6th and 8th ridge in the floor. Sound about right?
    "Forum signatures are for fools." ~Anonymous Fool

  8. #23
    Member Since
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    You say the filter flows fine so can you place a bucket under the filter with the tank side attached and the engine side in the bucket then turn the ignition to ON. This should run the fuel pump for two seconds. If you have flow then it's not the pump that's the problem. When I had my fuel pump fail the gauge was unaffected. Is the fuel pump relay working? You say the fuse is good but do you have 12V getting to the fuse? I looked at the schematic and the pump and gauge do not share a common circuit.

  9. #24
    Member Since
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    Sta-bil

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperBoomTurbo View Post

    Earlier in the day, I added another 4 gallons via jerry can from my fuel ration rotation so I could put fresh fuel in two cans, though it was treated with Sta-Bil. Gasoline was just under 4 months old. Sta-Bil wouldn't jack up any sensors, would it?
    I use Stabil all the time in my Jensen Healey, never had an issue. I thin it is just an additive to retard moisture build up
    "Take it up with my butt, cuz he's the only one that gives a crap"

    Carter Pewterschmidt

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by bartmanS4 View Post
    You say the filter flows fine so can you place a bucket under the filter with the tank side attached and the engine side in the bucket then turn the ignition to ON. This should run the fuel pump for two seconds. If you have flow then it's not the pump that's the problem. When I had my fuel pump fail the gauge was unaffected. Is the fuel pump relay working? You say the fuse is good but do you have 12V getting to the fuse? I looked at the schematic and the pump and gauge do not share a common circuit.
    I haven't checked it with a multi-meter yet. Too cold to work on here today, and my computer is having issues too. That was a relatively easy fix though (PSU crapping out).
    Anyway, next warm day I'll try the bucket, but at the moment, I'm not getting any kind of pump noise like usual (the click or whine in the tank) at all.
    Believe me, I'd rather this be a circuit problem and not a pump problem! And I thank for you the ideas to check, too. Keep 'em coming!
    Last edited by SuperBoomTurbo : 01/08/2015 at 12:42 PM Reason: clarity

  11. #26
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    Edit: The computer being the work/home PC inside and not the truck! =D Best to specify I guess.

  12. #27
    Member Since
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    Well F*&k!

    I'e changed my mind on the electrical versus mechanical issue. Mechanical is way easier to diagnose and fix!!

    Took a good run at the ol girl today, starting with fuse chasing, i.e. Checking everything in the cabin and under the hood. Nada. Did the 2 second fuel thing and got a few drops, but not consistently. One time I would, two others and nothing. Not sure what 2 seconds of fuel is supposed to look like, but I was pretty sure it was more than a few drops. I ended up cutting the access hatch and replacing the pump. Annnnnd.... nothing! Still cranks hard, no bang.
    I found that the negative battery terminal clamp is pretty much maxed out on adjustment, so that's going to get replaced next.
    I also tried swapping the pump relay with the horn relay and both worked fine (pre-hatch cutting) and checked all the wiring looms that were moderately exposed. Other than a coating of road grime, I didn't find any bare wires. I didn't bust out the multimeter, but I was reading last night that the PCM may have something to do with this? Anyone happen to know where its located, as its not labeled anywhere in the main or cabin fuse box.

    Also while rooting around, I found some moisture on the driver side floor mat. Pulled that up and found a bit of the fuzzy white mold. Shiiiiiit. My vx has what I'm pretty sure isn't a factory moon roof, which has never worked particularly well since I've owned it. It has power and moves on the right days, but other times it won't budge. I'm thinking the weather stripping might be toast as I found some signs of dried moisture around a windshield pillars and down the door hinge areas, so I'm hoping that didn't drip down into the dash and short out a ____.

    While in the tank, inside it looked immaculate as far as old gas tanks go, and much to my surprise, it was full to the very top of the pump assembly. That dead fuel gauge is still the prime culprit, just not sure where to go from here.

  13. #28
    Member Since
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    Aha!!!!

    After weeks of chasing problems, checking wiring and fuses/relays, I finally decided to just replace all the fuses starting under the dash, cranking each time.
    Lo and behold, after swapping the CB-3 15amp 'Engine' fuse, she fired right up!! Whoa!!
    Well, it rained for a few days and I haven't driven it until today. Got to Oreillys and back and once again, it died pulling over the hump in the driveway. Same fuse. Guess that means there's a short somewhere?
    I went and got one of the fancy 'glows if it blows' fuse packs to make this a bit easier. Replaced, revved the motor, pop!

    So my question for anyone (I'm good on mechanical drawings but wiring diagrams confuse the hell out of me) Do you know where this wire runs around before coming into the dash fuse box?
    I found one loom that Firestone had diverted after botching my power steering pump job (long, depressing story that THEY caused!) and that will be my first look-see. Currently I've tucked it under the radiator area and a convenient hardline, but it had been making the occasional 'takka takka takka' sound, so I'm betting that sucker is rubbed through.

    Edit: In the case of the Firestone incident, if any of you are curious how Firestone works on the Vehicross, you can enjoy a fine bit of reading with my experience here:
    http://www.bbb.org/fort-worth/busine...ints#breakdown
    it's the first complaint on 11/20/2014. I don't put this up for attention but a consumer warning.
    Last edited by SuperBoomTurbo : 01/27/2015 at 10:23 AM

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