Maddawg's Madness /starting a make-over.

[Maddawg]

Here's some ideas:

1) With my rear seat removed (and long gone!), I laid mine flat (31.5"),
then used 2 ratchet straps in an "X" configuration woven in and out of the spokes and secured to each of the factory metal tie downs on the floor. IIRC my straps were rated at 7,500 lbs.

2) Rowhard did a spare tire mount in the rear, with the tire in an upright position.

3) I believe JollyRogerVX made a spare tie down like the ones you see in the bed of pickups...tire is up at a 45 degree angle.

Check out their galleries for pics and ideas.

Thanks Kat! I was thinking of option 2, but I like the cost of option 1. Removing the rear seat might get rid of that "canary" that lives somewhere back there, lol.

[Maddawg]

I have to agree with Jo that 35's with stock gearing is just fine. Yes its a good bit slower accelerating and the speedo is off, but that's easy to get used to. In 4-low it creeps along plenty slow for most stuff and I actually like the effectively longer gearing for normal street driving.

Yeah, I was wondering how it would affect 4-low. Thats a good thing!

[Ldub]

Wait, are we still talking about your car here??

might be...

[Triathlete]

No worries...I'll take any opportunity to say: "mine is too big"..

Yes, you do have a rather large head on your shoulders!

[VXorado]

Plus..no body lift helps keep Center of Gravity lower.
Jo

My bud Jo... I always hear this and ask:

When considering the same amount of lift needed- we'll say 4-5" for 35" tires. A suspension lift raises the frame, engine, transmission, transfer case, gas tank, body where a body lift just raises the body and leaves everything else lower. With that said, how does a body lift increase the center of gravity more than a suspension lift? It should be less, right?

[tom4bren]

My bud Jo... I always hear this and ask:

When considering the same amount of lift needed- we'll say 4-5" for 35" tires. A suspension lift raises the frame, engine, transmission, transfer case, gas tank, body where a body lift just raises the body and leaves everything else lower. With that said, how does a body lift increase the center of gravity more than a suspension lift? It should be less, right?

True ... but ... he's talking the difference between adding the body lift on top of the 3" suspension lift already in place, and just doing more trimming the clear the big meat.

[Maddawg]

I think I may have located a 4.77 front from a Trooper, are there any specific questions I should ask about it, besides condition and price. Like does 12 bolt enter into the equation for a front diff?

[VXorado]

I think I may have located a 4.77 front from a Trooper, are there any specific questions I should ask about it, besides condition and price. Like does 12 bolt enter into the equation for a front diff?

The front (10 bolt) gears can be easier to find because they where used in late 90's Rodeos. Rodeos use a Dana 44 rear axle, so people will pull the front gears and sell them without matching gears to fit the 12 bolt rear axle. You would be better off finding a pair because finding a 12 bolt individually might be difficult. Of course, it never hurts to have spare gears for the front axle.

[VXorado]

True ... but ... he's talking the difference between adding the body lift on top of the 3" suspension lift already in place, and just doing more trimming the clear the big meat.

That makes sense. I have 5" lift for the 35s, has anyone fit 35s with 2-3" suspension and extra cutting?

[Triathlete]

That makes sense. I have 5" lift for the 35s, has anyone fit 35s with 2-3" suspension and extra cutting?

I believe Etfrans (ex bigmeats) fits that description. It has major wheel well trimming to clear.

[JoFotoz]

Yup Tom, exactly that...

True ... but ... he's talking the difference between adding the body lift on top of the 3" suspension lift already in place, and just doing more trimming the clear the big meat.

I run Calmini coils with a 1 inch spacer for a lift of about 3.5 inches......on 35 inch Nitto Mud Grapplers

Yes...I had to do some surgery to the back of the front wheel wells for clearance...

...and some cladding trimming at the front.

I'd rather cut out, cut off wheel well bits that are NROV ( not required on voyage!)..
...than lift the body any higher.

jo

[JoFotoz]

WOW...that was quick...

I think I may have located a 4.77 front from a Trooper, are there any specific questions I should ask about it, besides condition and price. Like does 12 bolt enter into the equation for a front diff?

The front diff housing on the VX is a 10 bolt ...the rear is a 12 bolt.

Obviously you'll still need to source a rear 12 bolt 4.77... to match gearing.

Make sure the ring has 43 teeth, pinion 9 ...43/9 = 4.77777777
Look for even wear on the teeth, this shows it was set up properly.

It may well be hard to find a single 12 bolt 4.77 rear...but even so,
you should grab this front one if its in good shape and a reasonable price.

You can then souce a front/rear pair of 4.77's...
...and you'll have a spare ( as already stated) for the front, which is very nice to have....
....and the one more prone to getting blown up.

Or....you may get lucky and find a lone 12 bolt 4.77 rear to go with it.



Jo

PS...
Worst case scenario is you end up with a lone front 4.77....

...that one of these days someone here will REALLY NEED!

(edited to correct 10 bolt front..12 bolt rear..My bad! )

[VXorado]

I believe Etfrans (ex bigmeats) fits that description. It has major wheel well trimming to clear.

Yeah, I think he used a sawzall to trim all of the wheel well.

Yup Tom, exactly that...

I run Calmini coils with a 1 inch spacer for a lift of about 3.5 inches......on 35 inch Nitto Mud Grapplers

Yes...I had to do some surgery to the back of the front wheel wells for clearance...

...and some cladding trimming at the front.

I'd rather cut out, cut off wheel well bits that are NROV ( not required on voyage!)..
...than lift the body any higher.

jo

That's good to know. I thought 4" lift was minimum but 3.5" must be fine for offroading if that's your lift.

The front diff housing on the VX is a 12 bolt ...the rear is a 10 bolt.

Jo...

The front is the 10 bolt IFS.

[JoFotoz]

DOHHH...

Jo...

The front is the 10 bolt IFS.

...you are of course 100% correct.

And I am ( of course)...a twit!

I fixed it in the post.

Jon!

jo

[VXorado]

no worries Jo, I've got your back.