Need pics of actual VX engine mounts plz...

[yellowgizmo99]

the only difference I see was one has RH and the other has LH on it, at least on the ones I have which are originals.

[PK]

Please be very careful here.
Not even Isuzu is silly enough to mark them with different part numbers when they could be identical.
The cost of adding an item to inventory stocks and then distributing it worldwide, are very high.

Even if they look identical, the rubber compound might be different.
Remember the loads on each mount are different.

Static loads would be around the same, and the dynamic loads from vehicle movement would be about the same.
But the loads from the torque of the engine are opposite.
One mount has the torque loads trying to twist down on it.
The other side has the torque loads trying to lift it.

You might get away with putting two LH units in, and they might last 3 months, or 3 years, but if it was meant to be a different compound, eventually it will fail prematurely.

PK

[SilverBullet75]

PK,
You make a good point.
For right now, I'm at a point where I just need it fixed enough to survive for about a year... cheaply.
I'll be doing an LS swap after I pay off the VX in February.
Even used ones would be ok at this point.
If I can find the proper one for the right side, I'll definitely go that route though.
Thanks!

[SilverBullet75]

Ahhhh... I just found that Amazon sells what looks to be the correct design for the right side mount!
They are made by an aftermarket company called Westar.
I'm going to order just the Right side, and keep the left side (DEA brand) that I already bought. The DEA mount was much cheaper (1/2 price).
The distributor for Amazon has 20 of them in stock.
I just tried searching for other sources for this Westar mount... there are none! Looks like they have the last batch.

BTW...
Here are the part numbers

Isuzu OEM:
Left Motor Mount:
8971041581
Right Motor Mount:
8971041571

(Aftermarket) Westar Motor Mounts:
Left
1028AMZ1935
Right
1028AMZ1934

Man... I hope this helps the next person... This was a PITA!
LOL

[89Vette]

I'll be doing an LS swap after I pay off the VX in February.

Is yours totally broken? I assume you have to pull the motor to get at them. Seems like a lot of work to do it again in a year...or two.

[SilverBullet75]

Yes, they are both toast. I can put a screwdriver into the mount and easily shift the engine side to side. There is a lot of vibration, shaking, and banging.
From what I can see, I can reach the mount bolts from the wheel wells. Remove the bolts, jack up the engine a little, swap the mounts...bolt them back up. Done.
In theory....

[SilverBullet75]

Just received this email from the supplier for Amazon:

"Our warehouse has notified us that the inventory in our system for this part was inaccurate and was wrong. We do not have these on the shelf and have pulled our offering on amazon. We will need to cancel the order which will be 100% refunded. "

ARGGGH.


Back to square 1.

[yellowgizmo99]

Jim shoot me a PM with address and you can have them for $20 plus shipping if you need them to work for a year or two.

[SilverBullet75]

New Mounts are installed!
... with some collateral damage fixed.

Both engine mounts were broken away from their metal bases, and the transmission mount was broken (replaced 2 wks ago). Exhaust was being strained enough to break the muffler at the pipe entrance to the muffler. Exhaust was sitting on the trans-cross-member...

ALL fixed and welded.

Took all of Saturday. It's not that difficult of a job, just time consuming and physically painful if you don't pull the motor. Your hands get very bruised in the confined spaces. I ended up buying Yellowgizmo's old mounts (thanks Billy!) for piece of mind, AND bought new mounts (installed).

Some tips for those attempting this:
Tools needed: 14mm, 12mm wratchet/sockets with extensions. 10mm small box end wrench.

Wheels off.
Jack up/jack stand the front end... high!
All bolts are accessible from inside the wheel wells or under the VX.

Remove each mount bracket from the engine (4 bolts per mount) and 2 bolts each that hold the mount to the chassis (accessible from wheel well or under the hood with a long extension for ratchet).

Driver's side... release and move the wire looms attached by plastic clips to a sheet metal piece. Remove the sheet metal (10mm bolt).

Passenger's side... remove the 2 metal transmission line mounts. Use bungee cord to pull the trans lines out of the way (to the right).

You'll have to pull the mount assy's loose from the engine, then jack the motor up slowly about 3-4 inches.
Once it's lifted, you can maneuver and twist the mount until the inner 2 studs/nuts are accessible. Remove these. The mount assembly separates into multiple pieces.
Note their order.
Drop out the piece with the rubber block.
Swap the new one in.
Maneuver it in.
Bolt it to the assembly.
Rinse...repeat.

Be prepared for bruised and torn-up hands.

The end-result is well worth it. It drives and feels 10's of thousands of miles younger now.

[yellowgizmo99]

great to hear you got it done.

[Ldub]

Thanks for all the VXinfo...from parts to procedure.....

FWIW...most things that bloody & bruise your hands, and to a lesser extent, other parts of your body, are always a very satisfying endeavor.

The $avings gained by doing it your$self...icing on the cake.

Getting closer to your ride, by fondling her nether regions...BONUS icing.....

dub shuffles off to add this to his "to do someday" list...

[SilverBullet75]

Thanks Dub!

I wish I had done this during the Diff Drop install.

It would have been MUCH easier to do while the front axle was out.
Oh well...