Grey cladding

[blacksambo]

I had my cladding taken off and line-x front to back. It looks really sharp and all I do is spray it with the hose it looks great.

You've got a big investment there. But what happens if a panel gets damaged? Will a later re-paint match?

[bssage]

I had my cladding taken off and line-x front to back. It looks really sharp and all I do is spray it with the hose it looks great.

Yeah I would think that would be the fix to end all fixes. Would like to see pics. Do they offer a choice of shades from black to grey with that stuff? Can I ask a general cost? That is definitely something I am considering. Is there any issues you didn't consider when you made the decision?

[VX KAT]

For some of the "newer" members, there's been extensive posting and numerous threads on use of different products to keep the cladding looking good.

After extensively discussing TEMPORARY treatment products like Back-to-Black (usually abbreviated as B2B), 303, Ice, Stoner Trim Shine, Turtle wax and several others (like TS-1 which is 3-6 months)....several of us moved on to find a more PERMANENT solution. Most of the temp products contain silicone, which has to be removed before applying the permanent type products.

Several Permanent products have been tried in the past year or two including these.
There's one or more THREADs on each of these with detailed info, you can search on the keywords to find them:

• Refinish/Restorer (abbreviated R/R)
• TC Black Fusion
• Showroom New
• GatorBack
• Heat gun
• Bedliner stuff...Line-X, Rhinoliner, Herculiner (bssage...there's many pics of these ont he forum, some have done the entire truck!
  
  
  Painted cladding:

This thread probably has the most info and discusses a lot of testing some of us have done with various products:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...BLACK+CLADDING


Several TSBs issued about the cladding:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=12867


Heat gun:
Info and discussion on using heat gun to refresh cladding:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...553#post247553


Here's a pretty good summary of several products I researched:

Well, I've done some reading up on the AV forum on cladding treatments.

TOTAL SEARCH RESULTS FOR "GATORBACK"
http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...hp?board=113.0


SOME OF THE MORE PERTINENT THREADS WITHIN THOSE SEARCH RESULTS:

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...,119244.0.html - TALKING ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH GATORBACK

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...,117336.0.html - Details on APPLYING GatorBack

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...c,90475.0.html - Talking about using Refinish/Restore

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...,124226.0.html - Talking about both GatorBack and Refinish/Restore

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...,117082.0.html - Discussing GatorBack and TS-1

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...,112257.0.html - Detailed description using Krylon Fusion and Duplicolor

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com...c,39494.0.html - Long detailed test by a user of 7 products: (Done in 2005)
Products used in Alphabetical order:
1 303 Aerospace Protectant
2 Klasse Sealant Glaze
3 Pennzoil All-in-One
4 NXT Wax not used on panel #3
5 NXT Rubber/Vinyl/Plastic Protectant
6 Stoner's Trim Shine
7 Turtle Wax Tire Shine
.....and a few other products......pencil eraser, peanut butter, Future floor wax (which is an acrylic), Mop-N-Glow floor



Letter from GatorBack to Av owner that had a shop apply GB 4 separate times....and its still not right!!!

Shanes 02 Avalanche
Full Member
Location: Coarsegold, ca
Joined: Jan 2005


Re: Gatorback issues and questions????
« Reply #4 on: 04/11/10 11:04 AM »
Here is Gatorbacks reply:

Shane,

I am very sorry to read about the difficulties you are experiencing with GatorBack. I believe that I can provide you with information to solve your difficulties. Chipping and peeling, where the GatorBack fails to adhere to the cladding, is caused by incomplete cleaning and prep work prior to the initial application. There is a three step process that involves first cleaning with denatured alcohol, a solvent-type cleaner to remove any residual material such as silicone that will interfere with adhesion. Secondly, the cladding is lightly abraded with Scotch-Brite gray scuff pads. This abrasion promotes adhesion. Finally, cleaning with the GatorBack Cleaner removes all remaining residue and renders the surfaces ready for the GatorBack application. The detailed instructions can be found on the home page of our web-site, www.GatorBackCoatings.com and entering the Cladding Restoration portal. On the home, in the center there will be a clickable area that will offer to download a PDF file about 8 pages long with all the steps detailed. Print the file and take it to the shop where you had your truck done.
Please understand that GatorBack is manufactured in huge quantities and every production run consists of enough product to do 216 vehicles. If there were to be a defective batch, it would affect 215 other customers. After having done over 30,000 Avalanches the past five-six years, I can tell you that we have not had 25 problems in that entire time span, let alone with any one batch.
The shop will probably not like to have to re-do the application, but that is the only way to solve your problem. They will have to remove the existing GatorBack with lacquer thinner and then proceed with the application process again.
Please feel free to contact me if I can be of any more information, and again, please accept my apologies that you have had to experience the problem with your application.

Neil Power
GatorBack Coatings
(813) 294-9219

[vt_maverick]

TS-1 isn't permanent, I was applying it every 3-6 months when I used it.

[bssage]

I was just trying to help people understand the real problem.

We worked on the bloom for 18 years with a lab, TGA Compounding, different types of ovens ect. And were still unable to cure or make a permanent fix.

What would be helpful is a chart or matrix with Cost, Frequency, Difficulty ect compared. Then people could decide what is best for them without reinventing the wheel each time. Some people would choose a difficult fix over a frequent fix. Or a frequent fix over an expensive one.

I am going to check out your links Kat. But there are 12 of them. It may take a bit.

thanks

[bssage]

Ok up to page 10.

A few notes.

The peeling or flaking of the coatings is really "de-lamination" and it occurs when the bloom or mold release reduces adhesion of the coating to the part. One way to combat this with paints or laminating products is to abrade the surface of the substrate (cladding). It increases the surface area and adds angles of adhesion.

While heat and ozone contribute and accelerate the leeching. They are not the cause. The parts will bloom in a temperature controlled closet. I promise.

I think I will try and get ahold of some of my old coworkers. they may have a line of some stuff not commonly available.

[VX KAT]

I am going to check out your links Kat. But there are 12 of them. It may take a bit.

thanks

....and I didn't include many more I have saved....

Here's another one, theorizing on how the various products may work:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...&postcount=159
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....and like I said above....it's been extensively talked about on here.....
.
.

[VX KAT]

Ok up to page 10.

A few notes.

The peeling or flaking of the coatings is really "de-lamination" and it occurs when the bloom or mold release reduces adhesion of the coating to the part. One way to combat this with paints or laminating products is to abrade the surface of the substrate (cladding). It increases the surface area and adds angles of adhesion.

While heat and ozone contribute and accelerate the leeching. They are not the cause. The parts will bloom in a temperature controlled closet. I promise.

I think I will try and get ahold of some of my old coworkers. they may have a line of some stuff not commonly available.

I'll try to save you some time, here's the main ones.

SHOWROOM NEW DYE:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?

TC BLACK FUSION:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...t=showroom+dye

REFINISH RESTORER:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...INISH+RESTORER


GATORBACK: There's a few small threads:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...INISH+RESTORER

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...INISH+RESTORER

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...INISH+RESTORER

[PK]

Bssage, there is another question often discussed on here, that you may have a specialist opinion on.

Is our actual cladding, a dark grey colour, or a light black????

PK


Bugga - where is the fire proof suit when I need it??

[VX KAT]

Bssage, there is another question often discussed on here, that you may have a specialist opinion on.

Is our actual cladding, a dark grey colour, or a light black????

PK


Bugga - where is the fire proof suit when I need it??

you troublemaker!!!!


You know that suit was well used up from before...you need a NEW one buddy!

ya PK! .......
.
.
.
....sorry ssage for the TJ...just an old inside joke around here.....

[bssage]

Bssage, there is another question often discussed on here, that you may have a specialist opinion on.

Is our actual cladding, a dark grey colour, or a light black????

PK

I am feeling like I am getting all techie just to try and make myself sound smart.

Color is a perception. The shades between black and grey are probably not the same for you and I. And they vary greatly with distance angle and light. You can get your color vision certified and work in the Auto industry comparing colors. But most of the time in a manufacturing setting a computer is used. Like at the paint store.

Since I have never seen one of these new IDK. The easy way to tell is cut a sliver off the cladding in look at the inside of the profile. Or simply make a slice in a inconspicuous area and check it the way you would check a steak to see if its cooked.

What about a chart Kat?? Anybody on the site have time for that?

[VX KAT]

Since I have never seen one of these new IDK. The easy way to tell is cut a sliver off the cladding in look at the inside of the profile. Or simply make a slice in a inconspicuous area and check it the way you would check a steak to see if its cooked.

Ya mean like this! :mado:
It's what my fab shop did to my cladding when fabbing and installing my custom tail light guards! ....sanded or gouged the crap out of it and never even mentioned it to me
So, now we know Showroom New dye doesn't penetrate all the way down in the cladding BUT...I touched it up with my leftover dye and it looks fine.

[VX MileHigh]

I am going to throw my 2 cents in about the color of the cladding. I have an Astral and I am finishing up a repair to the front cladding. Since I have "paint" the area that I fixed, I bought some Bumper Coating, it is from Duplicolor, I think. It has different shades, I got the Dark Charcoal and it is an almost perfect match. But other cladding that I have seen is more black.

[bssage]

Personally I like the blacker look better.

[Gizmo42]

Have to bookmark this page when I get home. Now that I have a vehicle with cladding (Volvo) I want to know whats best to use on it and knew this was the place to come for that topic LOL. This thread at least has links to all the research I need.

Sue, what is your favorite product so far? I know you've probably used more different ones then anybody.

Oh yeah, my cladding is black except the top of the rear bumper but I"m fine with making that darker.