Opening your headlights

[LittleBeast]

I know it has already been done:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...light=Whaleboy
Bit I think with V-LEDs kit this will be MUCH easier! They are ordered and on their way. Will be late March before I finish though.

[WormGod]

The REAL trick with this fab is aiming the modded lights. Luckily, I never had to do it since the conversions I did were just painting housings. I looked into doing a projector fab for the VX a while back but concluded I didn't have the patience for it, heh.

There is a place near me (total boy-ricer shop that I dread dealing with) that does AMAZING custom light kits. I have seen some of their work at meets and I will give them credit for that. Just don't know if I care enough anymore to commit.

[LittleBeast]

So I have ordered everything needed, all I need to do is decide what type of spray paint to use on the parts I need to paint. I think I will use Krylon Fusion for plastic (gloss black), but I am worried about the heat from the headlights, so should I get some high heat spray paint? I am pretty sold on the Krylon plastic paint but want to make sure the heat from the headlights does not ruin the paint job. I know I will sand down the plastic to help with adhesion, anything else you all suggest?

[WormGod]

I always used Glasurit automotive basecoats since I had access to a paint shop. The Subie crowd is big on headlight masks, and they typically swear by Duplicolor. I used it on some wheels a couple years ago and it has stood up VERY well, but I never personally used it on a light assembly. Granted, you want to do it right the FIRST time, so don't cut any corners. You REALLY don't want to crack the lights open again for a flaw.

Here is what I would suggest:

-Scuff (Scotch-Brite) assembly parts to be painted/ mask off what you don't want painted to protect from scratch marks.

-A few thin coats of self etching prime

-Scuff prime

-Light even coats of base coat. Duplicolor wheel or caliper paint is heat resistant if you are concerned about heat.

Let it dry for a good day before rebaking/sealing. If you want to go the extra distance, fill a bucket with WARM water and drown the assembly lens side up. Keep dunked to look for leaks in the seal. If you don't fix them, you will get fogging in your assembly in some weather conditions.

I imagine you are going with a matte color/base coat? You give the assembly a shiny/lacquer enamel surface, you may get unwanted glare and reflection from the lights.

Above all else, try to have fun and set aside some "grace time", since nothing ever goes right.

[yellowgizmo99]

the matte is a good idea, I did a MR2 Spyder I have with regular body paint and I notice when I am driving on highway and go under a sign the scatter of light i get on it.

[etlsport]

ryan, i have done lots of rattlecan work and i wil l say i have not been happy with krylon fusion paints.. they never seem to set right for me. even after curing for a week, 10 seconds with a rubbing compound by hand took it completely off.

i would say a plastic primer and then a high good quality paint and clear

i agree with wormgod on the duplicolor recommendation. ive been using their perfect match paints recently and you can get a really nice finish out of those, and had no problems with them.. also i did my engine cover with rustoleum rust-tough and it turned out great, and no problems with the heat at all

[LittleBeast]

..... they typically swear by Duplicolor. I used it on some wheels a couple years ago and it has stood up VERY well,

Here is what I would suggest:

-Scuff (Scotch-Brite) assembly parts to be painted/ mask off what you don't want painted to protect from scratch marks.

-A few thin coats of self etching prime
-Scuff prime
-Light even coats of base coat. Duplicolor wheel or caliper paint is heat resistant if you are concerned about heat.

I imagine you are going with a matte color/base coat? You give the assembly a shiny/lacquer enamel surface, you may get unwanted glare and reflection from the lights.

I am hoping since I am going with the projectors that I will not get as much glare as without them, and I really want to go gloss black to match the VX as much as possible. I might regret that in the end we will see, good thought though I will still keep that in mind as the process takes shape. All the other advice I will probably follow as closely as I can. I alreay purchased "the good stuff" gasket maker for the reseal, I don't want to reheat the old glue I will just remove it.

ryan, i have done lots of rattlecan work and i wil l say i have not been happy with krylon fusion paints.. they never seem to set right for me. even after curing for a week, 10 seconds with a rubbing compound by hand took it completely off.

i would say a plastic primer and then a high good quality paint and clear

i agree with wormgod on the duplicolor recommendation. ive been using their perfect match paints recently and you can get a really nice finish out of those, and had no problems with them.. also i did my engine cover with rustoleum rust-tough and it turned out great, and no problems with the heat at all

Ok sounds like I will go with a plastic primer and then Duplicolor high heat gloss black and a clear coat (for plastics?). So roughen up the plastic then roughen up first coat of primer, then 1 more coat of primer, then 2 coats of paint then clear coat? Is the clear coat necessary? I have never had to much success with clear coats. Is this the kind of Scotch brite to use or just use sandpaper: http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/port...8gs&lang=en_US

[etlsport]

i always use clearcoats just because i have better results from it. i can never seem to get a "glassy" finish with just a color coat. so what i usually do is

primer

light sand (400 grit)

color coat (2-3 light coats)

wet sand 1000, 1500, 2000

clear coat (2 light coats)

wet sand 1500, 2000

mcguires ultimate compound