the matte is a good idea, I did a MR2 Spyder I have with regular body paint and I notice when I am driving on highway and go under a sign the scatter of light i get on it.
the matte is a good idea, I did a MR2 Spyder I have with regular body paint and I notice when I am driving on highway and go under a sign the scatter of light i get on it.
ryan, i have done lots of rattlecan work and i wil l say i have not been happy with krylon fusion paints.. they never seem to set right for me. even after curing for a week, 10 seconds with a rubbing compound by hand took it completely off.
i would say a plastic primer and then a high good quality paint and clear
i agree with wormgod on the duplicolor recommendation. ive been using their perfect match paints recently and you can get a really nice finish out of those, and had no problems with them.. also i did my engine cover with rustoleum rust-tough and it turned out great, and no problems with the heat at all
I am hoping since I am going with the projectors that I will not get as much glare as without them, and I really want to go gloss black to match the VX as much as possible. I might regret that in the end we will see, good thought though I will still keep that in mind as the process takes shape. All the other advice I will probably follow as closely as I can. I alreay purchased "the good stuff" gasket maker for the reseal, I don't want to reheat the old glue I will just remove it.
Ok sounds like I will go with a plastic primer and then Duplicolor high heat gloss black and a clear coat (for plastics?). So roughen up the plastic then roughen up first coat of primer, then 1 more coat of primer, then 2 coats of paint then clear coat? Is the clear coat necessary? I have never had to much success with clear coats. Is this the kind of Scotch brite to use or just use sandpaper: http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/port...8gs&lang=en_US
Last edited by LittleBeast : 02/23/2011 at 11:59 PM