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Thread: Opening your headlights

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2001 Ebony S/C #1304
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    The REAL trick with this fab is aiming the modded lights. Luckily, I never had to do it since the conversions I did were just painting housings. I looked into doing a projector fab for the VX a while back but concluded I didn't have the patience for it, heh.

    There is a place near me (total boy-ricer shop that I dread dealing with) that does AMAZING custom light kits. I have seen some of their work at meets and I will give them credit for that. Just don't know if I care enough anymore to commit.
    Gary Noonan
    '01 S/C VX / '18 Forester XT

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jan 2005
    Location
    2001, Ebony Black, 1153
    Posts
    2,264
    Thanked: 2

    Question

    So I have ordered everything needed, all I need to do is decide what type of spray paint to use on the parts I need to paint. I think I will use Krylon Fusion for plastic (gloss black), but I am worried about the heat from the headlights, so should I get some high heat spray paint? I am pretty sold on the Krylon plastic paint but want to make sure the heat from the headlights does not ruin the paint job. I know I will sand down the plastic to help with adhesion, anything else you all suggest?

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2001 Ebony S/C #1304
    Posts
    3,647
    Thanked: 10
    I always used Glasurit automotive basecoats since I had access to a paint shop. The Subie crowd is big on headlight masks, and they typically swear by Duplicolor. I used it on some wheels a couple years ago and it has stood up VERY well, but I never personally used it on a light assembly. Granted, you want to do it right the FIRST time, so don't cut any corners. You REALLY don't want to crack the lights open again for a flaw.

    Here is what I would suggest:

    -Scuff (Scotch-Brite) assembly parts to be painted/ mask off what you don't want painted to protect from scratch marks.

    -A few thin coats of self etching prime

    -Scuff prime

    -Light even coats of base coat. Duplicolor wheel or caliper paint is heat resistant if you are concerned about heat.

    Let it dry for a good day before rebaking/sealing. If you want to go the extra distance, fill a bucket with WARM water and drown the assembly lens side up. Keep dunked to look for leaks in the seal. If you don't fix them, you will get fogging in your assembly in some weather conditions.

    I imagine you are going with a matte color/base coat? You give the assembly a shiny/lacquer enamel surface, you may get unwanted glare and reflection from the lights.

    Above all else, try to have fun and set aside some "grace time", since nothing ever goes right.

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