Window Regulator

[Leon R]

I agree, throwing parts, without truly understanding the core of the problem is a waste of time and money. And I might have already done some of it�

� as it turns out, my old regulator was NOT bad! At least not totally bad! I saw the back white blocks come away from the guide, as window tilted forward and ASSumed that this was the regulator that was causing this problem� Well, the brand new regulator will do the same thing!

Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the �metal rail� as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison�s problem wasn�t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!

Evillecutter, If all it take is �one finger� pressure to keep your window going up, you might be able to do the �$3 bungee cord mod�. In my case, I would need 3-5 of those bungies .

[tom4bren]

I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!

I can't help you there son. If I can get some on the next regulator swap, I will. Those will be some difficult shots to take though.

[VX KAT]

Last night, I saw even more evidence that binding is caused by too much clearance. You can actually see it in my earlier photo:



First, the bracket angle appear to be smaller than 90*. I am not sure if it was suppose to be 90*, but it appears to be bent in a direction to cause too much clearance.

Second, if you follow the rail up, you can see it twisting, once again causing too much clearance.

Do we have any photos of this "metal rail" from when these trucks were newer?

In ether case, I will need to purchase a DS glass run, are they still available from Issuzu? - YES, still available, about $65.

Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the �metal rail� as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison�s problem wasn�t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!

1) Just so I'm clear, are you saying thru regular use, the glass and glass run actually caused the forward vertical metal channel (that my screwdriver tip is pointing to) to bend/twist?





2) The bracket you're asking about the angle�It was never 90 degrees, it's just as in your picture and mine.
I tried to move mine (to be a smaller angle), but I really only moved it maybe 1mm, if that.

"Phines" wrote up a "How To" on how to bend that bracket and widen the vertical channel:
http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...ewarticle&id=3





3) Anybody have a pic of the vertical metal channel "twisted"?



4) Here's two threads on BUNGEE CORD fix:

a) http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...hlight=zip+tie

b) http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...63&postcount=9

Here, I'll save her some mouse clicks:

�and yer point iz?

[tom4bren]

�and yer point iz?

OMG. I just saw the pix. It's worse/better than I thought.

[Allison3371]

OH BOY OH BOY. The shop thinks they fixed it. I stopped in and they were still working on it. I will pick it up in the morning and post pictures.

SO, they removed everything and started over. He said one of the plastic mounting brackets was broken, so he had to get new ones. ISUZU HAD THEM IN STOCK! WOW!!! And the replacements are now metal?! He said they only attach with a plastic (DUH) set screw to the glass, so he used window adhesive to mount to the glass. He had to place several washers under the right side on the top and several on the right side on the bottom (where I had the gap between the regulator guides and the track). He said it stays on the track with no problems but slows a little when the glass gets to about 3" from the top.

I won't be able to test it for 2 days until this adhesvie dries, but I'm excited. He didn't charge me any labor, just $35 for the replacement brackets.

I feel really bad because they started on it at 8am and just now getting done. But I'm thrilled it might be fixed!

[Allison3371]

Well it appears they fixed it. It goes up and down with no tilt now, but it's really slow and REALLY slow at the top. Also, the rubber on the top of the door panel that runs along the glass now flips under when the window goes down. Maybe due to the shop moving the glass closer? Not sure, but at least I can tint the windows now. Here are some pictures on how they repaired it.
(This is the passenger door)

Before:

Bottom right track after shimming:

Top right track after shimming:

New metal glass mounting brackets from Isuzu:

This is how the guides seat now:

Any suggestions to keep the top rubber gasket from buckling under?

[Allison3371]

Also, this is how he had to relocate the top guide bolts:

[VX KAT]

My guess…
that strip has multiple fasteners along it that fasten to the metal tabs on the door shell…sounds like he didn't line it up and hook onto each fastener. Once fastened, that strip can't flip down.

You can pry it up starting at the door lock knob. Be very careful doing it as that has a metal rod inside and if you bend that, it will be a PITA to get it back flat.


ALSO…the slowness TOWARD THE TOP….means it NEEDS LUBRICATION!!! Review the posts that talk about lubricating the rubber channel. Very important, or you'll end up burning out your window motor. Can use 100% pure silicon spray, Teflon Silicone, Dive Silicone



http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...47&postcount=8

And consider the discussion earlier in this thread about whether the vertical metal channel needs to be windened and possibly moved a little forward. I, and many many others have done that, with great improvement in the slowness, as it relieves some of the pressure/friction on the front edge of glass along the rubber track. LeonR disagrees with this theory however.

[Bulldoggie]

I agree, throwing parts, without truly understanding the core of the problem is a waste of time and money. And I might have already done some of it…

… as it turns out, my old regulator was NOT bad! At least not totally bad! I saw the back white blocks come away from the guide, as window tilted forward and ASSumed that this was the regulator that was causing this problem… Well, the brand new regulator will do the same thing!

Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the “metal rail” as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison’s problem wasn’t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!

Evillecutter, If all it take is “one finger” pressure to keep your window going up, you might be able to do the “$3 bungee cord mod”. In my case, I would need 3-5 of those bungies .

The white guides pulling away from the regulator lifting track is what breaks the window tabs.
It is a sign that the regulator is pulling away from being under the glass!!!!
It is why I used the washers.
It is important to use just the right amount of washers!
It has to hold the regulator arm (the part bolted to the window tabs)
Under the glass RELAXED while it is unbolted.
It has to be checked while the window and regulator arm are unbolted near the bottom and near the top of the window travel.
the window tabs should rest on the arm, while un bolted, relaxed.
Too many washers and it will be pushing under.
Too few and the white plastic guides will pull away.
Every window will need different adjustments for each alignment problem.
There is no one fix, that works for all.