Originally Posted by Leon R
Stay tuned for some "worn out to a split" photos!
As promised:
This is the outside (metal channel side)
This is the inside (glass side)
If you disconnect the regulator and move the window up and down with your hands, you can really feel the play in the "worn rubber" area.
So we seem to have a fundumental disagreement, Kat thinks this is caused by window "track" being too tight and I think that it is caused it by it being too "loose"! Could we be looking at two different problems? Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong!
Did Allison replace her "glass run" with actual NEW or used parts?
Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong!
Heck yeah, I could be wrong!
Remember, I'm not addressing the tilt problem.
My truck had 65k on it when I bought it, and my windows worked, but driver side was a little slow. When I took it apart I found my rubber track had been cut off, and there was NO rubber in the metal channel from the tweeter panel down I also had severe wind noise from that area.
I bought a used one from blujfan, when I installed it, I found the glass had more more slowing/binding when it went went thru the VERY TOP of the metal channel.
So I followed "phines" How To on the forum. Others have used this fix as well.
I widened and moved my vertical track forward, and the glass had much less resistance going up. The more I tweeked it, widened, BFH forward, the less resistance it had. As well as seeing the window slow, you can also HEAR the motor slowing so I felt quite sure I knew where it was binding.
After a while, I decided to buy a NEW glass run because I live in AZ and rubber can deteriorate faster. I then sold my used glass run to Tom.
The passenger glass run I have here from my salvage yard "project" is also split like your picture, but my guess is that's from it binding and getting tugged on up and down and it just ripped….not the rubber is wearing and is thinner, allowing more space.
Maybe we are talking 2 diff problems..maybe you're talking tilt?
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